454 chevy stripped head bolt hole
#11
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MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: artesia new mexico
Posts: 172
inserts
hey guys thanks a million for the advice i knew i could count on you guys for some "correct" and helpfull help. im trying to see whats available to me in my area of the us before i order something thanks again mike
#12
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RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Re: inserts
Originally Posted by mikeaton
hey guys thanks a million for the advice i knew i could count on you guys for some "correct" and helpfull help. im trying to see whats available to me in my area of the us before i order something thanks again mike
Good to see you back on the site (RJ), you been missing a while, i thought maybe you were harvesting the tumble weeds.
You can go to (MSC direct.com) that's where we buy all our shop supplies, they are called lots of thing but the name i reconagise is KEEN SERTS, they have been around for 40/50 yrs.
Zip.
#13
Member
JUNIOR BUILDER
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dexter, New Mexico
Posts: 69
inserts
Mike I had an old 427 tall deck block that I ran blown alky for a few seasons, ya need to stud that thing NOW, just FYI, I probably had 7 or 8 helicoils in that thing by the time I chunked it. It was filled and the heads were solid castings so water was not an issue. Stud it, you'll be fine. Stud the mains while yer in there too. 8) JB
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: artesia new mexico
Posts: 172
head bolt
hey guys!! thanks for all the info it is very helpfull you guys are great i just finished the "nut insert" thanks bj and yes i did "stud" the block man what was i thinking? anyway torqued all the nuts down to specs and for the moment every thing looks great. now if i can only figure out how to keep the intake bolts[some i cannot get to unless the blower is off the engine] fro getting loose on me and leaking oil. thanks guys mike [tubleweed rusler]
#16
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MASTER BUILDER
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: out of my mind in Kalamazoo, MI
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Originally Posted by billhendren
They make tools to drill and tap your block straight but if you cant find one you can make one if you have access to a mill. take a piece of steel at least one inch thick and drill a hole in it thats the tap drill size,then drill another one next to it and tap that one.on the other end cut a slot that is wider than the 7/16 bolt.position the slot so it will reach any other head bolt. simply center the fixture up on the bad hole and bolt it down.using the tap drill size hole to square your hand drill,drill the bad hole to tap drill size. loosen the fixture and position the hole you tapped over the bad hole and clamp it down. screw the tap through the fixture and into the block.thats all there is to it.Bill
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 3
454 Stripped Head Bolt Hole.
There are numerous thread repair methods, Heli-Coil, KeySerts, thread inserts. Heli-Coils will work for the majority of times and is synonymous with thread repair and although not fool proof is the most common method. If the threads pulled out and you get the proper thread depth for the Heli-Coil it will hold. The common problem I see with Heli-Coils is that the Heli-Coil is not put in deep enough to where the the first coil pulls out. The coil is to long,the insert extends beyond the thread. The tang can not be removed cleanly, it gets pushed aside or distorts the coils. This will either chew up the bolt or the coil will screw out of the bottom of the deck surface. Manley has the fixture to drill the hole square to the deck surface, when drilling by hand. The fixture accomates drill bushings and supplies the proper drill bushings for 7/16" or 1/2" threads. The fixture could also be used to drill for Keyserts or thread inserts with the purchase of the proper drill bushings available from any machine shop tool supplier (ie McMaster or MSC). In most cases threads will pull during the final torque of the final assy and the repair has to be done by hand on the motor. I have had after repairing one thread and after reinstalling the head another thread will pull out. This generally happens with old blocks and there is no way to tell if a thread will pull out. If you have run a tap through the threads (common practice) you unknowingly created the problem. In essence you have made the thread to loose or taken away from the root diameter of thread and do not have proper thread engagement. ARP makes "clean out taps" that do not remove material or thread restoring taps are available from tool suppliers. If,as was suggested, the milling machine can accomodate the block, it might not be cost effective to repair one thread.