davebat

Yes, has the electric valve to open/close the system. But, maybe I got confused, thought there was a different valve that someone was talking about that released with oil pressure (like if the pressure dropped below XX lbs, then it would open).
But, going back to re-read....LOL OLD AGE!

davebat

Ah ha! I did read about the different type valve here.
Do yous have a place were I can find a pressure calibrated release valve? I would use the main electric sylinoid for prelube and turn the system on/off. then be able to use the calibrated release valve? Hmm, gonna have to think about that.

gdmii

Hi Bill,

So the problem with the circle track is refilling the accumulator at a time when you need the pressure to the motor?? I thought the Canton systems had pressure switches that only let the system discharge when system pressure fell below the set point and then recharge when system pressure was above the set point. It would make sense the way you explained it if there was no restriction on when the accumulator refilled. Thanks for setting me straight.

George

billhendren

And as far as circle track, the point where we usually are starved for oil is just as you get off the throttle, slam the brakes and dive into the corner. The 7,000 rpm at the end of the straight away has all the oil on the topside and the G forces take away what was left for a very short period. Good oil pressure coming out of the corner, doesn't take long for the pan to recover the oil it needs coming out of the corner.

If you don't have your blocks together yet you can fix your problem and not need any accumulator.
Grind the rear oil return hole on the passenger side toward the dist bore until the dist bore is 3/16 thick,grind to the front until you get to outer part of the cylinder wall,grind to the outside of the block the same amount.in the rear grind all the way to the back bulkhead plus about 1/8 "
This will give you a return hole that is almost three times stock. now repeat this on the drivers side hole.
Thread all the center holes down the valley 1/4 pipe. get some 1/4 pipe x 1.00 brass nipples and screw into the holes. DO NOT buy after market aluminum or steel nipples,the idea is to have a big vent hole and the brass nipples are the thinest wall.
Using these modifications we haven't run restrictors in any wet sump engine for over 10 years. we have absolutely no oil pressure problems entering or through the corners.Bill

edvancedengines

I think I see now what is going on.

Looks like there are several different Original Sources, just like Moroso for the Original Accusump Oil Accumalator.

None in my opion except Canton is the original but who knows.

Here is thier links and some information about their diferrent valves.

Ed

http://www.accusump.com/

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_valves.html

Our E.P.C. valving is ideal for those looking for the convenience of an electric valve and the fast refill rate required in racing applications. The pressure control system keeps the electric valve in the off position during times of normal oil pressure. With the valve in the off position the Accusump is able to quickly regain oil pressure after discharge, thus being ready for the next oil surge. When the engine's oil pressure drops below a predetermined level the valve opens and releases the stored oil in to the system.
==============================================

NOTE:
============================
Electric Pressure Control Valving

E.P.C. Valving (#24-271, 24-273, 24-275)

Our E.P.C. valving has the convenience of an electric valve and the rapid refill rate of a manual valve. The E.P.C. valving allows the Accusump to quickly charge with oil when the engine's oil pressure is above a predetermined level and discharge when the engine's oil pressure drops below that level.

Comes with an electric valve, regulator, toggle switch, wire, terminals, and a pipe nipple.

Part #:'s
24-271 E.P.C. valve kit for a discharge of 20-25 PSI
24-271K to refit a standard #24-270 to a #24-271
24-273 E.P.C. valve kit for a discharge of 35-40 PSI
24-273K to refit a standard #24-270 to a #24-273
24-275 E.P.C. valve kit for a discharge of 55-60 PSI
24-273K to refit a standard #24-270 to a #24-275

Click Here To Purchase A Valve !

Concerned about which EPC Valve to use?

=======================
What E.P.C. Valve Pressure Setting Do I Need?


The Accusump E.P.C Valve is offered at three different pressure settings. Each valve is designed to allow the Accusump to recharge when the engine's pressure is above the pressure setting and to discharge when it is below.

When choosing the pressure setting that is right for your application it is important to consider you engine's oil pressure during normal conditions. You will want to choose an E.P.C valve setting that is below that normal engine pressure. This way when your engine is running normally the valve will allow your Accusump to accumulate oil pressure. Then when you engine drops below its normal pressure and the valve's pressure setting it will discharge its accumulated oil in the Accusump. If unsure of your engine's pressure it is best to choose the E.P.C valve with the lowest rating, the 20-25 psi valve.



=============================================
For other applications an electric valve can simplify it's use. They are ideal when used in applications where it is difficult to access a manual valve lever or to plumb the Accusump remotely like in a 'daily driver', boat, or an RV. This electric valve can be opened and closed from a remote dash-mounted switch or it can be wired directly into the ignition so it will open and close automatically when the ignition is in the 'on' or the 'off' position.

[

doubler

Looks like you can just use the standard electronic valve for street strip. P/N 24-270. Getting ready to buy one soon. Found a source on ebay if anyone else is looking for a decent price on these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Canto...spagenameZWDVW

Note: The refill rates on the electric valves are suitable and recommended for Street and Drag Strip use. On Circle Track and Road Course applications where quick refill rates are required, we recommend our E.P.C valve or our manual valve listed below.

E.P.C. Valving (#24-271, 24-273, 24-275)

edvancedengines

This price does look cheap.

I suggest to contact Canton to verify if this is an authorized seller before making a buy.

I verified his only recent negative feedbacks they would not keep me from buying from this seller as they show.

This TRE is in no way connected with TRE in Tennesee.

Ed

cepx111

Let me get this straight, thats 169.99 plus shipping for the actual accumulator which they so generously throw in the gauge with.
PLUS,
Another 149.99 for the valve kit and another 16.99 for the bracket kit.

I'm getting that funny Ala Carte feeling at a fancy steak joint when I order a baked potato.
Seems kinda high for basically a double acting hydralic cylinder minus the ram and, a solenoid, pressure switch and some tubing.

Here's alink to a site I found the valve kit(103.68) cheaper, but the mounting brackets (18.03) and cylinder (184.83) higher,
go figure.


http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/accusump.htm
><Cp

doubler

Yeah, you have to piece these together. You don't get the gauge with this either. It's 37 bucks more or so. Also the E.PC. (pressure valve) are like 50 bucks more than the standard Electronic switch which should be fine for drag cars or at least that is what Canton says. Here is another link that has more pricing, either way you look at it the price is going to add up to around 300 or more by the time you get everything. Could just get the manual vavle but having hot oil in the car next to you doens't seem like a good idea to me. I can just see that cylinder having a leak and spraying oil all over, not a pretty site...

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...ction=category

davebat

The system that I got is very good quality, generic type parts. Using this as the base system, depending on what you really want to use this for (accumulator or pre-lube), I would recommend it. It came with the gauge and electric valve, a lot of hardware, different plumbing connections and hose.
Probably the best deal out there. Haven't finished my engine builds yet, so I haven't tried it yet. I think he's selling them for 199.00, I made a sponsorship deal with our raceteam so I got mine for a fraction of that, but a great deal for two hundred bucks. Oh, and it came with an excellent mounting kit.
http://www.autoenginelube.com/