Milky oil and alcohol

Old 05-20-2011, 06:43 PM
  #11  
kod99
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Default

Originally Posted by hammertime
The idle will increase as you pull out the fuel shut off, this is normal. Think of it at starving it for fuel a bit to build temp (bascially like a lean out for a carb in a sense) You MUST only be at full fuel from the burnout book to the turn off at the end of the track, it puts to much fuel in at idle if not and this is most of your issue I am sure.

There can be a fine line sometimes on in to far and out to far, 2200 isnt bad and might be a good spot for it, you'll know as it will die if its out to far.

The wrist band deal does work, many people use this for a band-aid fix for the issue. The moroso canister to get is No. 85467

You can run a high speed to fix the 1 pump, but its all a pressure deal and a 0 1/2 would be a quick fix, maybe call Enderle and see if they can re-size it ?

Let me know if I can help you with the injection any further.
I changed today to 39 main nozzles and an 80 pill. I cleaned out the breather, it was full of very milky oil. Emulsified and thick.
I also installed a Wolverine 500W oil pan heater.
I will fire it up tomorrow and lean it to warm it up. Then I'll drain and check the oil.
kod99 is offline  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:23 PM
  #12  
zipper06
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Default

David has lot's of experience running Rons stuff, and he runs larger engines. my biggest engine is a 434" SM/BLK and it has Hilborn stacks on it. The 4.1 toilet bowl is on a 377" SM/BLK. I'm not a fan of James Monroe, because i've known Ron since the mid 80's when i lived i Phx Az. But i'm sure that David/hammer is spot on on the setup for your setup. No David i'm not kising up to you i just have a lot of respect for what you have done and accomplished with the Rons stuff. Enough said.

Zip.
zipper06 is offline  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:40 PM
  #13  
ccperf721p
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 116
Default

My opinion, leave the 1 pump in it and tune the engine. I run a 1/2 pump on a stack injected small block. Leave the high speed in the tool box until you get the system tuned to the point of needing it.

Injection is pretty straight forward, but there is no way anyone here can get you on a dead nuts setup, it will still need to be tuned regardless.

There are plenty of books on injection, the one I believe is the best is HRE Fuel Injection Basics. There is also the option of sending the system to someone like Spud Miller or Ralph Gorr with your specs and having them set it up for you.
ccperf721p is offline  
Old 05-21-2011, 05:20 AM
  #14  
hammertime
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Default

Originally Posted by zipper06
David has lot's of experience running Rons stuff, and he runs larger engines. my biggest engine is a 434" SM/BLK and it has Hilborn stacks on it. The 4.1 toilet bowl is on a 377" SM/BLK. I'm not a fan of James Monroe, because i've known Ron since the mid 80's when i lived i Phx Az. But i'm sure that David/hammer is spot on on the setup for your setup. No David i'm not kising up to you i just have a lot of respect for what you have done and accomplished with the Rons stuff. Enough said.

Zip.
Thanks Zip

Like all injection is pretty straight foward, I've struggled in the past and decided enough was enough and learned the hard way. My last engine had the same setup in it for 4 years, a 1000hp motor is 39/80 all day, his 1 pump will be a tricky one to nail on the head and leave it alone.

Kod there is a 0 1/2 rons black pump on ebay. If it didnt cost me 40 cents a minute to talk to you in Canada from my cell, I'd run you through everything on the phone. If it comes down to it, I will still do this either way.

What does it idle at in gear (rpm) with the fuel shutoff all the way in ?
hammertime is offline  
Old 05-21-2011, 08:37 PM
  #15  
kod99
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Default

Originally Posted by hammertime
Originally Posted by zipper06
David has lot's of experience running Rons stuff, and he runs larger engines. my biggest engine is a 434" SM/BLK and it has Hilborn stacks on it. The 4.1 toilet bowl is on a 377" SM/BLK. I'm not a fan of James Monroe, because i've known Ron since the mid 80's when i lived i Phx Az. But i'm sure that David/hammer is spot on on the setup for your setup. No David i'm not kising up to you i just have a lot of respect for what you have done and accomplished with the Rons stuff. Enough said.

Zip.
Thanks Zip

Like all injection is pretty straight foward, I've struggled in the past and decided enough was enough and learned the hard way. My last engine had the same setup in it for 4 years, a 1000hp motor is 39/80 all day, his 1 pump will be a tricky one to nail on the head and leave it alone.

Kod there is a 0 1/2 rons black pump on ebay. If it didnt cost me 40 cents a minute to talk to you in Canada from my cell, I'd run you through everything on the phone. If it comes down to it, I will still do this either way.

What does it idle at in gear (rpm) with the fuel shutoff all the way in ?
Thanks Hammer. If you PM me your number and when you are available, I can call you.

It idles at about 1000 RPM in gear with the shut off all the way in. In park, it idles at about 1600 RPM.

I drained the oil out of the engine today and recovered 14 quarts. 7 quarts of oil and about 7 quarts of methanol. The vacuum breater tank was full of emulsified oil. Thick as molassas. There is no doubt the injection system is very rich.
I changed oil and filter and cleaned everything up today. I will preheat the oil and change to an 80 pill and 39 nozzles in the AM. I will warm it up with the shut off part way out. Then pull a valve cover and check for milking.
kod99 is offline  
Old 05-22-2011, 03:52 AM
  #16  
hammertime
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Default

Be sure not to run it much if it is that rich again, if it is leave the 38 in and go to a 80 to 90 pill. Make sure you do not leave that fuel shut off at full fuel until you get ready to start you burnout.
hammertime is offline  
Old 05-23-2011, 05:24 AM
  #17  
kod99
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Default

Here is the next installment in the milky oil saga:

- Put new oil in engine
- Installed #80 pill and left #38 nozzles in engine
- Heated oil pan to 110 degrees with pan heater
- Fired engine with fuel shut off all the way in
- Idling at 1500 RPM for 2 minutes. Engine vacuum at 13 inches
- Pulled fuel shut off out 1" and idle increased to 2200 RPM
- Engine vacuum still at 13 inches
- Engine temp increased to 150 degrees and engine vacuum dropped to 3 inches in 5 minutes
- Vacuum breather can emmitting steam / smoke like a '64 Chev with bad valve seals
- Chrome Dynatech headers on left engine bank turned beautiful shades of blue and yellow
- @#$%&*!!!
- The headers on the right engine bank are still chrome
- Shut engine down and pull valve cover
- No milky oil in heads

Questions:

Why did the vacuum drop so much when the engine heated up?
Why did only one side get so much heat as to blue the headers?
What's with so much alcohol steam coming out of the vacuum pump breather?
Does a 598 BBC make a good boat anchor?
kod99 is offline  
Old 05-24-2011, 05:07 PM
  #18  
hammertime
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Default

Originally Posted by kod99
Here is the next installment in the milky oil saga:

- Put new oil in engine
- Installed #80 pill and left #38 nozzles in engine
- Heated oil pan to 110 degrees with pan heater
- Fired engine with fuel shut off all the way in
- Idling at 1500 RPM for 2 minutes. Engine vacuum at 13 inches
- Pulled fuel shut off out 1" and idle increased to 2200 RPM
- Engine vacuum still at 13 inches
- Engine temp increased to 150 degrees and engine vacuum dropped to 3 inches in 5 minutes
- Vacuum breather can emmitting steam / smoke like a '64 Chev with bad valve seals
- Chrome Dynatech headers on left engine bank turned beautiful shades of blue and yellow
- @#$%&*!!!
- The headers on the right engine bank are still chrome
- Shut engine down and pull valve cover
- No milky oil in heads

Questions:

Why did the vacuum drop so much when the engine heated up?
Why did only one side get so much heat as to blue the headers?
What's with so much alcohol steam coming out of the vacuum pump breather?
Does a 598 BBC make a good boat anchor?
Did better but, I can not stress enough about the fuel shut off needing to be fully in ONLY on the race track. Once it starts pull that bad boy out.

Vacuum dropping when when its warm, would tell me something isnt sealed internally when it warms up, do a warm leak down test and make sure the rings arent the issue ?

One side of the header is blue, possibly make sure none of the nozzels are plugged on either side, blue chrome headers can be cause from to lean or to rich (fuel burning in the header) .. I tossed the chromes years ago now, look on the internet for stuff called "blue out" buy a few things of it, and get ready for a lot of elbow work.

Steam out of the vacuum canister is normal to a point, how much is a lot ? like a train or like a exhaust on a cold day ?

I've never been a fan of a 598 tall deck motor, they never seem to run worth a darn. That being said, www.apdracing.com is building me a new 598 short deck motor right now and should be done in a few weeks, looking for north of 1050hp.
hammertime is offline  
Old 05-24-2011, 05:39 PM
  #19  
kod99
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Default

Originally Posted by hammertime
Originally Posted by kod99
Here is the next installment in the milky oil saga:

- Put new oil in engine
- Installed #80 pill and left #38 nozzles in engine
- Heated oil pan to 110 degrees with pan heater
- Fired engine with fuel shut off all the way in
- Idling at 1500 RPM for 2 minutes. Engine vacuum at 13 inches
- Pulled fuel shut off out 1" and idle increased to 2200 RPM
- Engine vacuum still at 13 inches
- Engine temp increased to 150 degrees and engine vacuum dropped to 3 inches in 5 minutes
- Vacuum breather can emmitting steam / smoke like a '64 Chev with bad valve seals
- Chrome Dynatech headers on left engine bank turned beautiful shades of blue and yellow
- @#$%&*!!!
- The headers on the right engine bank are still chrome
- Shut engine down and pull valve cover
- No milky oil in heads

Questions:

Why did the vacuum drop so much when the engine heated up?
Why did only one side get so much heat as to blue the headers?
What's with so much alcohol steam coming out of the vacuum pump breather?
Does a 598 BBC make a good boat anchor?
Did better but, I can not stress enough about the fuel shut off needing to be fully in ONLY on the race track. Once it starts pull that bad boy out.

Vacuum dropping when when its warm, would tell me something isnt sealed internally when it warms up, do a warm leak down test and make sure the rings arent the issue ?

One side of the header is blue, possibly make sure none of the nozzels are plugged on either side, blue chrome headers can be cause from to lean or to rich (fuel burning in the header) .. I tossed the chromes years ago now, look on the internet for stuff called "blue out" buy a few things of it, and get ready for a lot of elbow work.

Steam out of the vacuum canister is normal to a point, how much is a lot ? like a train or like a exhaust on a cold day ?

I've never been a fan of a 598 tall deck motor, they never seem to run worth a darn. That being said, www.apdracing.com is building me a new 598 short deck motor right now and should be done in a few weeks, looking for north of 1050hp.
Thanks Hammer.

I am going to do a cold leakdown test, then heat it up and do a hot leakdown test.
The fact that I had nearly 2 gallons of methanol in the oil pan and none out of the exhaust, even when it was cold, indicates to me that there must be some huge bypass going on inside the engine.
The steam coming from the breather is like a train, and the car was inside a warm shop when I fired it up.
I post the results.
kod99 is offline  
Old 05-25-2011, 06:01 AM
  #20  
ccperf721p
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 116
Default

Right side running hotter than left could be caused by a number of things.

Nozzles are not designed or tested for low pressure flow, so it may even drop a couple of nozzles with the handled pulled out. Butterfly settings and intake reversion can also play a part. The nozzles are aerated, so they pull in air even if they aren't dropping the proper amount of fuel.

There is no exact setting for the butterflies and barrel valve, it varies with each combination. It's a little back and forth game, find the butterfly opening that gives the correct idle speed, then find the correct barrel valve setting that gives the proper amount of fuel at idle so it goes up on the converter clean. I set up at 2 flats rich from a clean hit on the transbrake, which happens to be 22%. .002 on the butterflies, idle out of gear at 1150, 1000 in gear.

The drop in vacuum could easily be caused by the oil being stripped from the vanes in the pump. I have found it best to drop a couple of ounces of oil in the pump before I fire the car for the first time that day.

Try not pulling the handle out so much.
ccperf721p is offline  

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -