car setting 1'' higher on right side,
#11
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 151
Well I did.nt want to have this go unanswered so here is my results from yesterdays test, I took it to a chasis man last week and it took the ladder bars all the way to the top hole and that was level. then we had to resguare rearend and weight it. It was out of sguare, so I took it out and ran a perfect off the line straight down the track, 5.99 @ 114 mph in the 1/8. now as far as me changing the gear. from a 5.14 to a 5.67 it picked up a 10th in the 1/8 and 60ft went from 1.36 to 1.34 -now my rpm's going through the 1/8 did what the calculaters said it went from 6250 to 6950, but that suprised me because it kept it in the best rpm for h/p range and only picked up a 10th. I guess I still just have a lot to learn about this, it's not as simple has it looks or sounds it just cost a lot for trial and error, so I'll keep asking and keep going and see what happens, So the bottom line is I'm gonna put the 5.14 back in it and save on the motor strain It'll run a 6.09 @114 rpm at only 6250 rpm, So Again Thank all you guys for yall's Help on everything, on yea the wheelie bars setting 3'' off to the left did'nt hurt a thing,
Thanks Andy
Thanks Andy
#12
Originally Posted by andybyrd
Well I did.nt want to have this go unanswered so here is my results from yesterdays test, I took it to a chasis man last week and it took the ladder bars all the way to the top hole and that was level. then we had to resguare rearend and weight it. It was out of sguare, so I took it out and ran a perfect off the line straight down the track, 5.99 @ 114 mph in the 1/8. now as far as me changing the gear. from a 5.14 to a 5.67 it picked up a 10th in the 1/8 and 60ft went from 1.36 to 1.34 -now my rpm's going through the 1/8 did what the calculaters said it went from 6250 to 6950, but that suprised me because it kept it in the best rpm for h/p range and only picked up a 10th. I guess I still just have a lot to learn about this, it's not as simple has it looks or sounds it just cost a lot for trial and error, so I'll keep asking and keep going and see what happens, So the bottom line is I'm gonna put the 5.14 back in it and save on the motor strain It'll run a 6.09 @114 rpm at only 6250 rpm, So Again Thank all you guys for yall's Help on everything, on yea the wheelie bars setting 3'' off to the left did'nt hurt a thing,
Thanks Andy
Thanks Andy
#14
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Andy, you may find out that you really didn't gain a tenth with the gear change. Now that the chassis is squared up and adjusted properly it might run that same tenth better with the 5.14 gear when you change it back. Last year i saw on one of the Johnson's cars had the wheelie bars offset, but was too the passenger side of the car. It looked like they were testing something.
Zip.
Zip.
#16
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MASTER BUILDER
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 173
ladder bar adjust
guess one thing we can learn from this is that when ladder bars are initially welded in theyprobably should be weldel parallel to level ground with front ladder bar bracket is in the middle of the usual 3 front holes. this way you could go up or down if necessary and of couse make sure the rear end is square in the chassis. also i have heard alot of racers say they like to tune the suspension with no preload(if possible) and tune with the shock adjustment. pre load on take off has a revers effect on the front end at the end of the track when you let off the gas and unload the suspension. just heard that mentioned few times. what say you guys out there