ELECTRIC VACUUM PUMP RESULTS
09-04-2009, 06:43 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by gimmemud
I see what WJ is trying to point out, in order for a vaccum pump to work properly the engine must be sealed up air tight. (With exception of the vaccum system plumbing)
When you do this, your vaccum pump must be up to the task of pulling more vaccum than the engine creates the oposite of (positive crankcase pressure). If that is not achieved, you will have problems with blown seals and pushed out gaskets.
IMO a pump that will only achieve 2" of vaccum will never do this.
When you do this, your vaccum pump must be up to the task of pulling more vaccum than the engine creates the oposite of (positive crankcase pressure). If that is not achieved, you will have problems with blown seals and pushed out gaskets.
IMO a pump that will only achieve 2" of vaccum will never do this.
Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
I think he took his ball and went home.
Mud This pump is not positive displacement so pressure can pass through is even if it is not running.
09-05-2009, 04:44 PM
#22
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I tried to us a electric vacuum pump to eliminate the condensation in my engine due to short intensive bursts on the street, getting ready for the drags, but encounted the problem pointed out previouly, that under full load and high RPM I had a positve crank case pressure and blew out the rocker cover gasket and the sump gasket is now leaking with standard breathers, I now have a oil patch on my drive way and had a second degree burn to my arm from accededently touching the pump to remind me of the electric vacuum pump.
Now I am saving for a mechanical vacuum pump, I should have done in the first place IMO.
Now I am saving for a mechanical vacuum pump, I should have done in the first place IMO.
09-06-2009, 08:23 AM
#23
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The pump did pull out the condensation as expected. Car ran a best of 6.04 in 2800' of air. The pump did quit running after 3 passes and I haven't had a chance to pull it apart and inspect it. The three passes made after it quit were just fine no blown out gaskets of any kind. These are just our results do not try this at home we are trained professionals.
We have another pump that we will change out with the one that quit and I will report what I find wrong with the bad one. All in all it did what we wanted it to do. If it turns out that one will not last I will put it on here so no one wastes their time with it. Had a blast yesterday and made some rounds with both cars, 80° day, great racing, I think I heard there was 8 perfect lights through time trials and the first two rounds :shock: :shock: . Tough day.
Curtis
We have another pump that we will change out with the one that quit and I will report what I find wrong with the bad one. All in all it did what we wanted it to do. If it turns out that one will not last I will put it on here so no one wastes their time with it. Had a blast yesterday and made some rounds with both cars, 80° day, great racing, I think I heard there was 8 perfect lights through time trials and the first two rounds :shock: :shock: . Tough day.
Curtis
09-06-2009, 01:42 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by DrivingMissDD
12V pump motor run on 16volts ..Maybe burnt up the motor ?
Curtis
09-13-2009, 06:27 PM
#26
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I did a lot of looking around at different forums for information about a electrical vacuum pump. Most folks are using Delphi GM pumps either used or buying new. Some people are modifying them and claiming they get more vacuum. One of the best sources of information is turbobuick.com. I have a 383 in a 69 camaro street car with a D!SC procharger on it. The motor was never meant to be a forced induction motor and has 10.4:1 compression , so I only run 10-11 lbs of boost. However, this is a street car and most of the time, oil leakage is not an issue. When I go racing on the weekend though, I have lost about 1 quart of oil because of higher crankcase pressure(3-4mmHG) measured off a line plumbed into the valve cover.The car already has header evac system(vacuum is not measureable with a vacuum guage) The back of the motor and the transmission tunnel would be soaked with oil and when I opened the hood at the end of a run, the sky would turn blue from the oil smoke(ran on to the headers). I put a Delphi pump with a Racetronix harness that includes a Hobbes switch(motor only on with positive pressure) and ran this weekend. Not one drop of oil and no blue smoke. The system only pulls 2 inches of mercury but it stops the crankcase from pressurizing and pushing oil out of every orifice it can go. This electric system is not meant to be as good as a belt driven system, but in my application it helped to clean up the messy oil blowouts from cylinder blowby. Hope this information helps.
09-13-2009, 07:15 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by dftaylor
I did a lot of looking around at different forums for information about a electrical vacuum pump. Most folks are using Delphi GM pumps either used or buying new. Some people are modifying them and claiming they get more vacuum. One of the best sources of information is turbobuick.com. I have a 383 in a 69 camaro street car with a D!SC procharger on it. The motor was never meant to be a forced induction motor and has 10.4:1 compression , so I only run 10-11 lbs of boost. However, this is a street car and most of the time, oil leakage is not an issue. When I go racing on the weekend though, I have lost about 1 quart of oil because of higher crankcase pressure(3-4mmHG) measured off a line plumbed into the valve cover.The car already has header evac system(vacuum is not measureable with a vacuum guage) The back of the motor and the transmission tunnel would be soaked with oil and when I opened the hood at the end of a run, the sky would turn blue from the oil smoke(ran on to the headers). I put a Delphi pump with a Racetronix harness that includes a Hobbes switch(motor only on with positive pressure) and ran this weekend. Not one drop of oil and no blue smoke. The system only pulls 2 inches of mercury but it stops the crankcase from pressurizing and pushing oil out of every orifice it can go. This electric system is not meant to be as good as a belt driven system, but in my application it helped to clean up the messy oil blowouts from cylinder blowby. Hope this information helps.
Any resistance in the exhaust behind the evac tube will not allow it to function.
09-14-2009, 04:42 AM
#28
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dftaylor, very good feedback. I figured out what burned up the pump motor yesterday. Our engine is sealed up very good so the pump was working very hard, since we had no relief valve on it, and was building heat internally. This heat caused the brush mount to distort allowing it to short out inside. We have already changed motors and we are going to install a relief valve for the next test.
Curtis
Curtis
09-15-2009, 08:14 AM
#29
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I have used an electric pump on a couple of different cars now..The 1st couple I did have some issues with reliabliltiy. I do run the pump when the car is going down the track, but the primary use is to get moisture out of the motor after a run. Alcohol injected. I also have a blowoff valve set at 12" just in case
I found on a website that to make the pumps live you have to do some mods to it. I took one apart and did what was listed. That was 4 years ago and have not had a problem since then.
If anyone wants the information on how to modify an electric pump please send me you email address and I can forward it to you...It will be 2 Word Doc files (4 pages in total )
Good luck
Dean
I found on a website that to make the pumps live you have to do some mods to it. I took one apart and did what was listed. That was 4 years ago and have not had a problem since then.
If anyone wants the information on how to modify an electric pump please send me you email address and I can forward it to you...It will be 2 Word Doc files (4 pages in total )
Good luck
Dean
