Trailer Dealers

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Old 01-25-2009, 07:12 AM
  #21  
hammertime
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Originally Posted by dparker
Originally Posted by kod99
Originally Posted by sc4405
These posts are pretty much spot on - Elkhart is the trailer building mecca for some reason. My new Cargo Mate is a Forest River product, they make several brands and price ranges. Classic makes a very nice steel trailer, but the nicest steel ones IMHO are from Motiv, built by ATC. I know of a very good deal on an all aluminum ATC 40' w/small sleeping quarters, shower and toilet. Very nice trailer worth the money. I would have bought it had I not already ordered new. Good luck with your search, remember for the dragster little or no beavertail and get the dropped axles, and extra height helps (longer door). 8) JB
Why no beavertail in a dragster trailer?
I think sc4405 was talking about a hardtail dragster. David thats one thing Im going to enjoy about a suspended dragster, the extra ground clearance. On our Mike Bos dragster we use a dragster trolly and have to remove the nose piece.
Some of them hardtails can be a pain ! Even some suspended cars, I had one car that you could barley get your foot under it, to top it off it had a fiberglass body on it so u wanted to be sure you didnt rub with it.
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:34 AM
  #22  
kod99
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Originally Posted by dparker
A dragster will rub at the peak of the beaver tail even if the trailer is jacked up. A trailer with a flat floor once you get the door level with the floor the dragster will load with no trouble.
So a flat floor and raise the front end of the trailer when you load the dragster?
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:39 AM
  #23  
dparker
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That works if you don't have a dragster dolly. I built a dolly that you put under the nose of the dragster, it lifts the dragster about 18" off the ground in the front and has two tires. I bought a little trailer dolly from Checker and adapted it for my son's dragster. Works great, and you don't hardly have to raise the nose of the trailer and the beaver tail is no problem either.
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:01 PM
  #24  
hammertime
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Originally Posted by kod99
Originally Posted by dparker
A dragster will rub at the peak of the beaver tail even if the trailer is jacked up. A trailer with a flat floor once you get the door level with the floor the dragster will load with no trouble.
So a flat floor and raise the front end of the trailer when you load the dragster?

Thats what I do but have used a dolly before either way works.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:00 PM
  #25  
hammertime
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I know I asked for the info a few years ago.
I finally pulled the trigger on a new trailer a few weeks ago.




28ft Interstate Super Coach with a few upgrades should be done first week in April
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:17 PM
  #26  
dragonmaster093
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nice looking trailer
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:15 PM
  #27  
hammertime
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so far as promised .. picking up the new trailer tomorrow morning. Hope its like all the others I looked at there

I plan to epoxy the floors tomorrow afternoon and try and be ready by next weekend with everything
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hammertime
so far as promised .. picking up the new trailer tomorrow morning. Hope its like all the others I looked at there

I plan to epoxy the floors tomorrow afternoon and try and be ready by next weekend with everything
Hey David, it would be a good plan to seal the under neath of the floor with thompsons or a related product, since most of the trailer mfg. donot use treated plywood on the floors. I just went thru this on the drop down door on my Haulmark. I was totally surprised when my foot almost fell thru the 3/4" plywood due to the rubber sealing gasket going bad and my not catching it in time. I just reinstalled treated plywood on it.

Zip.
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:04 PM
  #29  
TheYellaBrick
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Pressure Treated marine plywood is best.
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:36 PM
  #30  
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Here are some pics of it












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