new to drag racing-what class is my car close to racing in?

Old 04-18-2011, 03:16 PM
  #21  
bjuice
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Originally Posted by doorracer
HAHA JUST a 200 shot. That's from 700 to 900 in a heartbeat. :shock: :shock: :lol: :lol:

Curtis
lol...ya I know !!! ...the TQ Curve is what gets you..Nos will pull your nads off from the time you in it until the time you let off. speacially in these Big chief 632's don't know what the final TQ number are but my baseline HP is close to 1300hp and 1050 lbs of TQ.... .so fair to say close to 1500hp on the 200 shot on the hp side
who knows the final TQ numbers..i would say in between a bunch and a-lot !!!...
seriously I say only 200hp shot.. I guess its all what your use to being around..these top running 10.5 guys is Running 300 hit off the line and another 350hp coming in 600ths out.

I went and watched Tony Christian Run 2 years ago at House of Hook he was on a quest to break the automatic pro-mod record...he had all 4 stages in by 600th's out.


One thing I have learned about NOS is that its a GREAT chassis tunning tool...we bring the hp up and down to adapt to track conditions it makes the car work really well .
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:41 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JBCustoms
Finesse is the right term for drag racing. I believe I will enjoy the tuning,reaction times,getting the car to hook up,ect. I always enjoyed those aspects of running on dirt. Sprint car racing is using finesse with brute force. I have mellowed out quite a bit and don't particularly want to get crazy with that type of racing again. I KNOW i have alot to learn about drag. Even the lingo is something to learn. I went over to another forum that deals with bracket racing and it was hard to keep up with the conversation. "bulbing,box or no box,footbraking it,ect. I have ALOT to learn but hey,isn't that what it is all about? If you are not learning something new every day the you are going backwards. As you get older,you start forgetting what you have learned if you are not progressing and building on the things you have learned.
Bjuice is right in that I should build this so that later on I can turn on a bottle when I am ready to do so. Anybody have any ideas on cams? I should probably move this to the engine section now. I want to thank you all for putting up with my ignorance when it comes to drag racing and also for the ideas,suggestions. Jim
it dont matter you can leave the post here...Glad you are seeking advise from us and welcome to the forum by the way...
Call comp cams they will have something to work with those Iron heads under 600 lift....

now as far as a crank you gonna spend ( u need to spend) a little cash for a Good one...My opinion you need to sink your cash into a good rotating assemby......

if you really want to step up to the plate and get a crank that will support 300 hp to 3,000 hp...I got your baby....a Sonny Bryant Billet crank with a Big block Snout...TOP OF THE LINE....cost over $4,000 new....your's for $1500.00 includes shipping...deal of the year !

for $2,700 I will throw in a brand new set of Billet Lint Rods ($1800.00 for the set) with bearings and a brand new set of SRP flat top pistons with rings .......over a $6,000 dollar rotation assembly that can handle as much as you and 2 of your best friends can throw at it........you will never need another rotation assemby !










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Old 04-19-2011, 02:28 AM
  #23  
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excuse me,I need to wipe the drool off of my chin.......





Ok,sorry for the wait,um,as much as I would love to have that assembly,it is way too serious for my plans. I buy that,then I would need to change out my heads as there is no way i would waste those parts on an engine with heads like these. Those heads deserve a set of Brodix ported out with Jesel,ect. 8)
I need to keep this less serious and more fun. I know myself well enough that if I went down that path,I would not stop until everything was changed as each piece would not be good enough to be used with the piece before it and so on and so forth.
Just a decent forged crank would be OK. I will take the assembly,get everything balanced and go from there. I am trying to rebuild this car like it was when it was raced back in the day. Putting NOS on it is a tip of the hat towards my appetite for torque and HP. If the car turns out fairly decent,it already has a spot at next years Detroit Autorama downstairs at the Singlefinger Speed Shop display. Besides,if I started building an engine with those kinds of parts,I would never get it took hook up using 8in tires.
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:39 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JBCustoms
excuse me,I need to wipe the drool off of my chin.......





Ok,sorry for the wait,um,as much as I would love to have that assembly,it is way too serious for my plans. I buy that,then I would need to change out my heads as there is no way i would waste those parts on an engine with heads like these. Those heads deserve a set of Brodix ported out with Jesel,ect. 8)
I need to keep this less serious and more fun. I know myself well enough that if I went down that path,I would not stop until everything was changed as each piece would not be good enough to be used with the piece before it and so on and so forth.
Just a decent forged crank would be OK. I will take the assembly,get everything balanced and go from there. I am trying to rebuild this car like it was when it was raced back in the day. Putting NOS on it is a tip of the hat towards my appetite for torque and HP. If the car turns out fairly decent,it already has a spot at next years Detroit Autorama downstairs at the Singlefinger Speed Shop display. Besides,if I started building an engine with those kinds of parts,I would never get it took hook up using 8in tires.
you make a very valid point !...these are the parts I am putting back to build either a procharger or Turbo engine in my 69 camaro
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:19 PM
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How about a Racer Series forged crank from Lunati? It is not the high dollar like Bjouice has but it is not an Scat 9000 series cast crank neither. That crank should hold up pretty good from what I have heard-what do you think about those cranks?
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