VALVE ADJUSTMENT 4/7 SWAP CAM
#21
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wellington , New Zealand
Posts: 122
Thanks Zipper06 for your comment. You are the only one on here that hasnt made a smart ass comment. You Other guys are so easy to wind up. Its like going fishing, once one fish bites .ITS ALL ON. haha keep it coming and ill keep laughing.
#22
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington state
Posts: 61
Man,..I havent been in here in awhile,..and I must tell you story..
Doctors are great, they can fixall sorts of things,..They can do tummy tuks, they can do breast implants, and breast reductions, they can do
lipo suction, and face lifts,nose jobs and all sorts of other alterations.
But they just cant fix STUPID.
Good luck on your blow job,
.woops I mean Valve job,.woops,.. I mean Valve adjust.
4/7 swap just means when adjusting the valves instead of adjusting before
7am , you now adjust the valves after 4pm,...Awwwwww.
BIG AMERICAN SMILE
Slick
I just had to do it.
Doctors are great, they can fixall sorts of things,..They can do tummy tuks, they can do breast implants, and breast reductions, they can do
lipo suction, and face lifts,nose jobs and all sorts of other alterations.
But they just cant fix STUPID.
Good luck on your blow job,
.woops I mean Valve job,.woops,.. I mean Valve adjust.
4/7 swap just means when adjusting the valves instead of adjusting before
7am , you now adjust the valves after 4pm,...Awwwwww.
BIG AMERICAN SMILE
Slick
I just had to do it.
#23
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 842
The bad thing, is your question coming from you is like us asking Neal Armstrong how you set the thrust on a rocket motor. We wouldn't even know what the answer meant. Looks to me like your position on your racecar is you don't know anything about engines so the answer is uncomprehendable. There's nothing wrong with you being that ignorant on engines, but you should be a little more humble. Your question was answered correctly many times. Lighten up maybe you'll learn something.
#24
:shock: I saw a few pretty good post with step by step instructions by some pretty good people , if you don't know how to adjust valves , what are you doing with a race car?? whats with the AMERICAN wise crack??HILLDALE where are you when we need you?????
#25
Member
MASTER JOURNEYMAN
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 46
Originally Posted by Tod74
Originally Posted by jrthone
ok thanks. all that info was no help at all. In the above 8 threads i did not get step by step method. I am new to this and this has wasted alot of my time. If ANY 1 out there has a STEP by STEP Method it would be greatly apreciated.
Then You said "I usually start with TDC etc...." that implies that you already know how to adjust valves and that your only issue was that you now have a 4,7 firing order swap cam...If you didn't already know how to adjust valves you should have said so, I would have been more specific.
Open hood.
Unbolt valve covers by rotating bolts or nuts counterclockwise with
the appropriate wrench.Remove coil wire(Accomplish this by firmly grasping the rubber boot on coil wire and pulling...I recommend the engine be off )
pick a cylinder...bump the engine over with a remote starter (by pushing the button ) until the exhaust valve on that cylinder starts to open...stop moving engine. Now insert a allen wrench in the poly lock on the intake valve while holding the outside of it with a box end wrench.Break set screw loose by rotating allan wrench in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE DIRECTION. and back nut up by turning it counter clockwise..insert feeler gauge.. tighten nut by turning wrench clockwise until there is firm drag on the feeler gauge...hold hex with wrench while snugging down set screw by turning it clockwise... recheck with feeler gauge..it will probably be looser, then snug down with hex wrench( clockwise) the last little bit. Check with feeler gauges.(go no go with .001" bigger and .001" smaller) Now bump motor over until that valve opens all the way up and is on it's way closed..repeat previous process on the exhaust valve. That's how I do it...I start on one side and do them all then go to the other side...takes a little longer maybe but to me there is less chance of missing one. Just my opinion everyone has their own way to do things.
#26
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Independence, Missouri
Posts: 1,181
Smart aleck Americans
Step 1- Take the car to a MECHANIC.
Step 2- Ask him to adjust your valves.
Step 3- Pay the man.
Last step- Take car home.
Maybe the easiest and fastest method in your case.
Ain't it funny how Americans seem to band together when criticized by foreigners. Keep on laughing.......We are. Hows that for summing it up?
Step 2- Ask him to adjust your valves.
Step 3- Pay the man.
Last step- Take car home.
Maybe the easiest and fastest method in your case.
Ain't it funny how Americans seem to band together when criticized by foreigners. Keep on laughing.......We are. Hows that for summing it up?
#27
I never had a problem with the 4-7 swap , but when I went to the 3 - 6 swap I had to adjust all the intake valves backwards,,,what was real hard was , I had to tear down motor and swap the 3 and 6 pistons around backwards , , now I have a small misfire , I was told that I need a special rotor button , will it never end???? :roll:
#28
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,137
Originally Posted by 68bbnova
Originally Posted by Tod74
Originally Posted by jrthone
ok thanks. all that info was no help at all. In the above 8 threads i did not get step by step method. I am new to this and this has wasted alot of my time. If ANY 1 out there has a STEP by STEP Method it would be greatly apreciated.
Then You said "I usually start with TDC etc...." that implies that you already know how to adjust valves and that your only issue was that you now have a 4,7 firing order swap cam...If you didn't already know how to adjust valves you should have said so, I would have been more specific.
Open hood.
Unbolt valve covers by rotating bolts or nuts counterclockwise with
the appropriate wrench.Remove coil wire(Accomplish this by firmly grasping the rubber boot on coil wire and pulling...I recommend the engine be off )
pick a cylinder...bump the engine over with a remote starter (by pushing the button ) until the exhaust valve on that cylinder starts to open...stop moving engine. Now insert a allen wrench in the poly lock on the intake valve while holding the outside of it with a box end wrench.Break set screw loose by rotating allan wrench in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE DIRECTION. and back nut up by turning it counter clockwise..insert feeler gauge.. tighten nut by turning wrench clockwise until there is firm drag on the feeler gauge...hold hex with wrench while snugging down set screw by turning it clockwise... recheck with feeler gauge..it will probably be looser, then snug down with hex wrench( clockwise) the last little bit. Check with feeler gauges.(go no go with .001" bigger and .001" smaller) Now bump motor over until that valve opens all the way up and is on it's way closed..repeat previous process on the exhaust valve. That's how I do it...I start on one side and do them all then go to the other side...takes a little longer maybe but to me there is less chance of missing one. Just my opinion everyone has their own way to do things.