zipper06

We run a .668 with 110 C/L in our 468 pump gas motor, in a 3700lb plus car less driver, but a little bit better head. Same gear, same trans with a 5500 stall. Last week it ran1/8 [email protected] with a 200 shot, had a 1.3601 60', last nite it ran 1/4 10.14@131plus,best 60' 1.42 but it was cold and we couldn't get the bottle pressure above 800lbs. We didn't bring the bottle warmer, i think if we could have got the bottle pressure up it would have run 9's.

The 6.34 translates to a 10.02@ 133.73, but of course we haven't run it yet and time is running out this yr., we got one more weekend to get it.

Zip.

chpseat987

Wow now thats hauling if I can get my car to run flat 11's or even like a 10.99 ish i would be very happy with that :lol: . I dont want to mess with having to install a cert cage in the car I have just a roll bar set up with swing out's. if I was going to push any faster I would probly look for a roller and use my power and drive train. what cam is that and the grind number if you dont mind me asking and is it a solid roller :?: ? I dont want to run anything but a solid roller cam set up.

zipper06

It is a solid roller Comp Cams, the cheap one, i think we paid $259.00 for it, it's the cast roller, not the billet one. I don't have the cam card here at my house, it's with the guy who owns the car who lives about 8 mi. away. I get the #'s for you and PM them to you in the next couple days. The car did run 10.56@126 on pump gas and Hoosier street slicks. That was before we put 14.5X32's and the 200 Zex nitrous plate on the car. We don't want to go with more than a 200 shot of nitrous, because the only thing that not stock in the short blk. is the ARP rod bolts and the Probe forged pistons, it's also a 2 bolt main blk.

Sorry about that, here is the cam that we are useing, it's a .660-.666, XR292R, see the specs. here.

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=501&sb=2



Zip.

chpseat987

Comp cams just sent me reply and there recomdation take a look and tell me what you all think.


Cam Spec Card Inquiry
PART NO. 11-734-9
01 INTAKE MASTER 4079B
02 EXHAUST MASTER 4067B
03 ENGINE CB 313GR-10
04 GRIND NUMBER CB 313GR-10
INT EXH
05 HYDRAULIC Y/N NO 14 DUR @.050 276 284
INTAKE EXHAUST 15 LOBE LIFT .4400 .4200
06 VALVE ADJUSTMENT .028 .030 16 ROCKER RATIO .00 .00
07 MAX GROSS VALVE LIFT .748 .714
08 DUR @ .020 TAPPET LIFT 313 322 17 LOBE SEPARATI 110.0
18 ADVANCE 0
09 VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE 19 VALVE SPRINGS 947-16
@ .020 10 INT 49 84
11 EXH 91 51 DATE SETUP / /
12 THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM(S) INSTALLED
@ 110.0 INTAKE CENTERLINE

zipper06

I would be the last one to second guess a cam company's recommendations, it looks like they were taking into consideration the altitude that you are running in, But for me in the conditions that we run in (close to sea level) it's a lot of cam. Example this past weekend Memphis corrected altitude 1500 ft. course we burn 1 gal of fuel and 1/2 gal of water with all the humidity that we have.
One thing you didn't say are the ProComp heads fully CNC ported. If they are they are supposed to flow 374 CFM, if they are not CNC ported you'll be lucky if they flow 320 CFM. I sell the Pro Comp heads but not for racing, due to all the complaints that people who have never ran them lay on them, and i would definately not run their valves (which you're not)
The heads on the 468" that i built are Brodix 2 Extra's and they are fully ported, but i doubt if they flow more than 340CFM, we're hurting the performance some what because we're running street headers 1 7/8" with a 3" collector so we can bolt on mufflers, we're also running a Edelbrock 454R intake with a 1050 Holly.
The other thing is that you said you had a 4800 stall converter, the cam they recommended says 4500/7500 operating RPM, it's not easy to turn 7500 RPM at 7700 ft elevation, with a 2900 lb car less driver i think i would look for a little lower power curve, but you'll never know unless you try their recommendation.

JMO

Zip.

chpseat987

Ya they have been doing the cam thing for along time now, our corrected altitude on a typical summer day can be over 7,000 feet. I have not cnc'd the heads but this winter I am planning to port, polish, and gasket match my self, I have not had a single problem or complaint about these pro comp heads they were affordable and work well "so far". I to am running the smaller header tubes I dont have them money for the bigger ones they would have to be customn made to fit in my car. I know I will be hurting in that area if you bring big air in you have to be able to let it out. I shift the car at 7,000 rpm's and run through the traps at about 7100, or 7200 rpms now. I am concerned about the 4500 low end on that cam im afraid it might bog the car down off the line and loose my 60 foot I have been considering a 3800 to a 3500 / 7000 rpm cam to help gain 60 foot times what do you think?

This is a tuff decision and an expensive one I dont want to get this wrong.

zipper06

(This is a tuff decision and an expensive one I dont want to get this wrong.)
I hear that,
You can probably install the cam at 108* and cover a little bit of the bottom end torque. Other thing is, even though we have a 5500 stall converter, we're leaving on a 3800 chip, so we're smacking the converter pretty hard.
This is all marginal, it could be a GO or it could be a BUST and i wouldn't want to be the one to make that decision. One thing is if it does not work, they will usually regrind to a different spec. for a $100.00.

Zip.