very successful
02-13-2008, 03:29 PM
#22
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Rutherfordton North Carolina
Posts: 192
Torque sounds around 80 / 100 lbs high compared with the many different 388 combinations we have run on our dyno over the years,both our stuff and other engine builders we did dyno testing for.
You sure that was N.A. without N20,if so i would seriously question the dyno.If the torque numbers are off the H.P. will be as well.Bill
You sure that was N.A. without N20,if so i would seriously question the dyno.If the torque numbers are off the H.P. will be as well.Bill
02-14-2008, 05:33 AM
#23
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 184
What rpm did it make peak Tq? And, then, what rpm did it make peak hp? Then its just simple math to figure out if its in the ball park. Which, its not. 493 would be realistic, even 525 possible, but, 593, no way, unless you used NOS.
No one is arguing that you can't make power on the cheap. My own 388 inch engine, is over 600hp and 535 ft/lbs, on a real dyno, that isn;t happy. I have about $1600 total out of pocket into it. Its a solid roller, pump gas, aluminumn heads, Scat cast steel crank, Eagle H-beams, Light weight forgred 2 vr coated skirt speed pro pisons, etc. Now, granted, I do this stuff for a living, and have at my disposal, all the equiptment, etc, to do everything myself, and, about 20 years of expierience, to make the heads and everything else work, which are just those cheap Strike force aluminumn heads, I bought them to keep my budget theme, but really wish I would have bought Platinumn Pro-1's, but, these heads flow well over 300 cfm with a 2.055 valve, at 220cc. I actualy have 3 heads, I bought one extra, and, I did a TON of work to that head, experimenting, trying valve jobs, differnt port configurations, valve sizes, etc, and, I have one port that moves 337 at .800 lift, but its 245cc, and uses off-set intake rockers.
I also was given a set of low time Comp roller lifters, crane gold race rockers, and stud girdles for some labor, I traded a valve job for the crank, I traded a buddy a set of 3/8 BBC pushrods for the rods, out of a known, low time engine, which, I got the pushrods from a customer, who said I could keep them, The block is a .060 over 350 4 bolt block, with ARP main fasteners, line honed, BHJ sq deck, block filled, and Was already at .060 when I got it, so I filled it, and re-tq plate honed it, which worked perfect for the small amount of extra clearance the block fill requires. Technicaly, I have more into it than that, because I bought the Power Bond SFI dampner like 6 years ago, and its been on the shelf since, as with the Team-G single plane, that, I have about 12-14 hours of porting time into, and, it is killer. It actualy flows better and makes more power than a victor jr, and Hurricane intake, as I did back to back tests. So, technicaly, you have to add the cost of those parts, but, since I have been sitting on them for years, I didn;t count that.
All in all, its brutal for what it is, and should stay together. This engine will be run for a few seasons, while I update the car slowly, and, build my big block, or Ls-1 style, 427 all aluminumn engine, not sure which yet. But, $1600 out of pocket, is pretty good for over 600hp.
Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com
No one is arguing that you can't make power on the cheap. My own 388 inch engine, is over 600hp and 535 ft/lbs, on a real dyno, that isn;t happy. I have about $1600 total out of pocket into it. Its a solid roller, pump gas, aluminumn heads, Scat cast steel crank, Eagle H-beams, Light weight forgred 2 vr coated skirt speed pro pisons, etc. Now, granted, I do this stuff for a living, and have at my disposal, all the equiptment, etc, to do everything myself, and, about 20 years of expierience, to make the heads and everything else work, which are just those cheap Strike force aluminumn heads, I bought them to keep my budget theme, but really wish I would have bought Platinumn Pro-1's, but, these heads flow well over 300 cfm with a 2.055 valve, at 220cc. I actualy have 3 heads, I bought one extra, and, I did a TON of work to that head, experimenting, trying valve jobs, differnt port configurations, valve sizes, etc, and, I have one port that moves 337 at .800 lift, but its 245cc, and uses off-set intake rockers.
I also was given a set of low time Comp roller lifters, crane gold race rockers, and stud girdles for some labor, I traded a valve job for the crank, I traded a buddy a set of 3/8 BBC pushrods for the rods, out of a known, low time engine, which, I got the pushrods from a customer, who said I could keep them, The block is a .060 over 350 4 bolt block, with ARP main fasteners, line honed, BHJ sq deck, block filled, and Was already at .060 when I got it, so I filled it, and re-tq plate honed it, which worked perfect for the small amount of extra clearance the block fill requires. Technicaly, I have more into it than that, because I bought the Power Bond SFI dampner like 6 years ago, and its been on the shelf since, as with the Team-G single plane, that, I have about 12-14 hours of porting time into, and, it is killer. It actualy flows better and makes more power than a victor jr, and Hurricane intake, as I did back to back tests. So, technicaly, you have to add the cost of those parts, but, since I have been sitting on them for years, I didn;t count that.
All in all, its brutal for what it is, and should stay together. This engine will be run for a few seasons, while I update the car slowly, and, build my big block, or Ls-1 style, 427 all aluminumn engine, not sure which yet. But, $1600 out of pocket, is pretty good for over 600hp.
Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com
