Will this engine be worth it?
#12
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: anchorage alaska
Posts: 56

If your planning a small block build and planning to go with a forged crank, it really doesn't cost that much more to stroke it out to a 3.75'' stroke and end up with a 383. In my opinion well worth the extra money and labor.
#14
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: falkville al
Posts: 1,764

the machine shop will take care of the bottom end for ya.well the maching anyway. the rest is the same as anyother build.ive got a 383 in my 53 ranchwagon, and it is FAST.ive shut down a few on the street with this heavy car. suprise, suprise, suprise.!!! i love it. if you arent sure on how to build one just get ya a book read a little and spend alot! lol
#15
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: nekoosa wisconsin
Posts: 308

383 is a 350 bored 30 over with a 3.75 stroke yeah just tell the shop u want it machine to be made into a 383 and they will get ya going its the same as building any other engine just different parts and go with a 6.0 rod it reduces outward pressure on the cylinder wall making it more efficient
-logan
-logan
#16
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 114

Laxking,
You can run 12.25's with a 350 at .060 over, stock stroke in a 3000# S10, powerglide, 4.56 rears, that's what mine runs in cool weather. Most of the time I run 1/8mile at 7.75's at 88-90mph. And it has the stock s10 rear end with traction bars. I race at 350' above sea level, that helps a lot. It wouldn't surprise me if my rear end fell out on the next run, but I've been running this same combo for about 4 years with no problem. It also has mid 70's smog motor heads, but it has a good cam, intake, and all the other parts. I went with smog motor heads because they are cheap, and I had them, and comp ratio worked out to be 10-1 so I could use pump gas 93 octane. Hope this helps you some. dgh
You can run 12.25's with a 350 at .060 over, stock stroke in a 3000# S10, powerglide, 4.56 rears, that's what mine runs in cool weather. Most of the time I run 1/8mile at 7.75's at 88-90mph. And it has the stock s10 rear end with traction bars. I race at 350' above sea level, that helps a lot. It wouldn't surprise me if my rear end fell out on the next run, but I've been running this same combo for about 4 years with no problem. It also has mid 70's smog motor heads, but it has a good cam, intake, and all the other parts. I went with smog motor heads because they are cheap, and I had them, and comp ratio worked out to be 10-1 so I could use pump gas 93 octane. Hope this helps you some. dgh
#17
Member
JUNIOR BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Delmar, MD
Posts: 83

Thanks everyone for the replies, giving me a few things to think about doing. As far as going 383, I've seen Summit has bottem end packages from Scat and Eagle, are these a good way to go, or what should I be looking for as for parts to build the 383?
#18
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: nekoosa wisconsin
Posts: 308

the rotating assembly are a good start or you can do it like this
FORGED 3.750 stroke crank for a 350 a good block bored .30 over and notched for clearance, forged 6.0 rod, some high dome pistons, aluminum heads (everyone i talk to THAT RUNS PROCOMP says procopm is good for the money) and a good cam to fit the build. thats how i would do it
JMO id go with forged crank and rods if you can afford them just for extra insurance but the scat 9000 crank is a good cast crank from what i hear
-logan
FORGED 3.750 stroke crank for a 350 a good block bored .30 over and notched for clearance, forged 6.0 rod, some high dome pistons, aluminum heads (everyone i talk to THAT RUNS PROCOMP says procopm is good for the money) and a good cam to fit the build. thats how i would do it
JMO id go with forged crank and rods if you can afford them just for extra insurance but the scat 9000 crank is a good cast crank from what i hear
-logan