vlave lash
#2
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 267
Wow, you are opening the door to a huge arguement, but I will tell you how I do it, whether right or wrong, it works for me...?
I take the cam manufacturer's hot valve lash specs, and add .002 on the intake side, and .004 on the exhaust side. Whenever I check them later when hot they are just about right on the money...
Just my opinion what works for me...
I take the cam manufacturer's hot valve lash specs, and add .002 on the intake side, and .004 on the exhaust side. Whenever I check them later when hot they are just about right on the money...
Just my opinion what works for me...
#4
We just had this discussion a short time ago. Here's the link to it.
Like said, what works for one application might not work for another;
http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtopic.php?t=18390
Like said, what works for one application might not work for another;
http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtopic.php?t=18390
#6
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Morrison, Colorado
Posts: 120
For me, I will adjust the valves about .006" tight for aluminum heads/iron block, or .002-.004" tight on an iron head/iron block. Warm the engine up fully and adjust to hot spec. Then recheck after it's cooled down completely. That will give you a cold spec to work on, then just make sure they are all even across the board. My motor now changes exactly .006" from cold to hot. Not sure how that happened, maybe it's just luck, but it's dead on. I set them .006 tight and they are right on the money hot. Aluminum head/iron block.