Losing oil pressure

Old 02-11-2012, 04:06 AM
  #1  
qiksix
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 62
Default Losing oil pressure

This is on my daily driver 2003 Pathfinder. I drove around the block for 1/2 an hour before the oil light flickers and comes on, turn engine off immediately sit for 5 seconds and start engine pressure back up to 40psi drive another 1/2 hour samething. I've installed a master pressure gauge and on cold idle it has 55psi and slowly drops to about 30psi as temp rises i know all engines do, but the needle bounces 1-3psi in doing this. It will sit there steady for while and then slowly drops to zero. When it gets down to around 10-20psi the needle flucuates 5-10 psi. As i bring the rpm's up pressure comes up as it should but not so much when it warms up. Just done a oil/filer change, i'm thinking maybe clogged pick-up or pressure releif valve. Has anyone had this happen or similar or know what would cause this.
thanks
qiksix is offline  
Old 02-11-2012, 07:40 AM
  #2  
gearhead1011
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
 
gearhead1011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Shepherdsville, KY
Posts: 313
Default

If this problem started right after you did the oil change then I would suspect a collapsed oil filter. If it's a fram filter I would bet money that's where the problem is. If the problem was there before the oil change it may be crud in the pan blocking the pick-up. When you shut it off the stuff settles into the bottom of the pan and allows the oil pressure to increase until it has run long enough to pull any loose crap back into the pick-up.
gearhead1011 is offline  
Old 02-11-2012, 11:07 AM
  #3  
lively
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
lively's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 2,190
Default

FRAM FILTERS --EVERY SCAMMER DESERVES ONE 8) 8)


not calling you a scammer -just-really hate fram filters ops:
lively is offline  
Old 02-11-2012, 03:33 PM
  #4  
qiksix
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 62
Default

No not a fram we only have ryco here in oz. Yes was happening before oil change i'll drain/strain oil see what comes out. Before oil change it would drop straight to zero within a couple of minutes. What do you guy's think of these engine flushes, a mate suggested it, i'm not fussed about them i think they could make things block up,yes/no.


Lively still trying to post pics from my other post.
qiksix is offline  
Old 02-11-2012, 04:31 PM
  #5  
bbchevy
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Fountain,MICHIGAN
Posts: 856
Default ?

How many Miles does the Unit have on it,and How long have You owned it(Mileage)Wise?

Later
G 8)
bbchevy is offline  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:04 PM
  #6  
zipper06
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Default

Not sure what kind of bypass you have on the screw in filter adaptor, but it's possible it could be stuck open, like on chevy we always plug them, also the pressure relief spring on the oil pump could be stuck open. I know that's not what you wanted to hear but it does sometimes happen.

Zip.
zipper06 is offline  
Old 02-12-2012, 02:45 AM
  #7  
qiksix
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 62
Default

I think gearhead could be onto something, i dropped/strained oil there is a little crud in it, so i stuck a bit of wire through the sump plug and there's a fare bit of crud in there. i'm in the middle of flushing it out with fuel, through the dipstick as to not wash the whole engine dry of oil. So i'll know in a couple of days if this doesn't work, it looks like the sump is coming off. Thanks guy's i'll let you know how i go.
qiksix is offline  
Old 02-12-2012, 07:11 AM
  #8  
fast75vega
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 965
Default

we had a ford windstar with 152k miles on it come in the shop cause the oil light was on and it was chattering bad even though it was full of oil. pulled the front valve cover off and their was a perfect mold of sludge under it that made it look like the cover was still on.... :shock: so i pulled off both covers and scraped out and cleaned them and the heads and placed them back on the motor. then ran the motor to temp and drained the oil and filled the whole motor to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and let it sits for a few days. it broke down the sludge in the motor and we drained and screened it and it was some nasty stuff... then i put a cheap filter and oil in it and ran it for about ten minutes and re drained it and put better oil and filter in it :wink: now the guys has over 200k on it and comes every 3000 miles for oil changes like clock work..... lol
fast75vega is offline  
Old 02-12-2012, 07:54 AM
  #9  
TheYellaBrick
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
TheYellaBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Emmett, Idaho
Posts: 7,334
Default

Originally Posted by fast75vega
we had a ford windstar with 152k miles on it come in the shop cause the oil light was on and it was chattering bad even though it was full of oil. pulled the front valve cover off and their was a perfect mold of sludge under it that made it look like the cover was still on.... :shock: so i pulled off both covers and scraped out and cleaned them and the heads and placed them back on the motor. then ran the motor to temp and drained the oil and filled the whole motor to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and let it sits for a few days. it broke down the sludge in the motor and we drained and screened it and it was some nasty stuff... then i put a cheap filter and oil in it and ran it for about ten minutes and re drained it and put better oil and filter in it :wink: now the guys has over 200k on it and comes every 3000 miles for oil changes like clock work..... lol
Sure would be a whole lot cheaper than a teardown and rebuild !
I've heard of guys doing this but never had to myself.
TheYellaBrick is offline  
Old 02-12-2012, 09:42 AM
  #10  
fast75vega
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 965
Default

Originally Posted by DrivingMissDD
Originally Posted by fast75vega
we had a ford windstar with 152k miles on it come in the shop cause the oil light was on and it was chattering bad even though it was full of oil. pulled the front valve cover off and their was a perfect mold of sludge under it that made it look like the cover was still on.... :shock: so i pulled off both covers and scraped out and cleaned them and the heads and placed them back on the motor. then ran the motor to temp and drained the oil and filled the whole motor to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and let it sits for a few days. it broke down the sludge in the motor and we drained and screened it and it was some nasty stuff... then i put a cheap filter and oil in it and ran it for about ten minutes and re drained it and put better oil and filter in it :wink: now the guys has over 200k on it and comes every 3000 miles for oil changes like clock work..... lol
Sure would be a whole lot cheaper than a teardown and rebuild !
I've heard of guys doing this but never had to myself.
heard rumors about it ... but that was our first time and the customer agreed he had nothing to lose at that point to try it. i was kinda shocked at how well it worked out and has good steady oil pressure now too i love talking to the old geezer wrench turners.... they are a wealth of knowledge and wisdom .....
fast75vega is offline  

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -