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Thread: hyperlube

  1. #1
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    hyperlube

    Wonder if any of this does any good? I see they have zink additive.
    http://www.hyperlube.com/Products-c3.html

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Don't know why you need Zinc additave on anything newer than 1995 model vehicle, but if you're running a flat tappet cam (hydraulic or solid) there's a better product available from Lucas oil, it has 11 to 13% Zinc additave, called break in oil, it's part # 10063 available at O'riely's on order for $16.00 per pint. The produts you posted only has 2 times EPA tolerance Zinc additave, not enough to protect flat tappet cams and lifters.

    JMO

    Zip.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by zipper06
    Don't know why you need Zinc additave on anything newer than 1995 model vehicle, but if you're running a flat tappet cam (hydraulic or solid) there's a better product available from Lucas oil, it has 11 to 13% Zinc additave, called break in oil, it's part # 10063 available at O'riely's on order for $16.00 per pint. The produts you posted only has 2 times EPA tolerance Zinc additave, not enough to protect flat tappet cams and lifters.

    JMO

    Zip.
    I have no idea why a 95 or newer engine would need it either?
    But anyway I was told break in oil has too much zink to run in regular oil, thats why its "break in" oil.
    I was going to run Comp Cam break in oil but not recommended to run all the time.

  4. #4
    Senior Member SENIOR BUILDER
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    I bought the Lucas break in additive a few weeks ago.There is a lucas product vender at the track I visit..The vender informed me it was ok to run the break in additive at all times..Got it for $10.00 16fl oz bottle...More input would be great on this thread..

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheRabbit's Avatar
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    Look at the lable on the zinc addititives. They don't have any zinc in them! :shock: Just a bunch of other stuff.
    A lot of engine builders use Rotella diesel oil for break in oil. But the EPA has been working on those oils too. It want be much longer you'll have to buy an OIL SUBSTITUTE FOR YOUR OIL :lol:

  6. #6
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    Rotella is not sufficient anymore either.
    Only Penn, amsoil, Comp cams Joe Gibbs and a few other is sufficient for old engines.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I got tired of wiping out cams due to todays cheap oil. Go roller and be happy!JMO
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  8. #8
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    Calling todays oil as cheap is wrong. The oils marketed today (name brands only) are much better than what our fathers and grandfathers put in their cars. It was not the oil companies that were forced to eliminate the Zinc in the oils, but our wonderful goverment and the tree hugger lobbying groups.
    But I will fault the oil companies for not letting the consumers know about the elimination of the Zinc in their oils.

  9. #9
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    When I first got my current car I changed intakes and the engine was completely clean so i am running "ZMAX" and I can't say its hurting anything but I can't say its helping either, but the engine seems to turn over easier.
    In another car I used to use "STP" oil treatment but if your valve seals and guides are really worn it will make your engine smoke.
    I really don't see a "mechanic in a can" as working.
    But back to the oil deal, the high priced oils are all synthetic and if your engine is older and you have been using regular dinosaur oil then expect a leak in the future.
    So the best you can do is just find an additive and hope for the best.
    My recommendation is "Comp Cams" additive.
    I have not tried "Lucas" oil additive but did use the fuel injector stuff and now my 01 Dodge truck wont start on the first turn of the key and it takes two times and a long period before it starts, and it all started with that tank full of gas with Lucas injector cleaner.

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Sounds like you injector cleaner may have flushed some gunk into an injector or two. That sucks. As far as my comment on cheap oil: nothing is cheap nowadays. What i was referring to as cheap oil,is oil that is not adequate for what we are wanting it to do. IE: keep our flat tappets alive.In my opinion,if a product doesn't do what i need it to do...its a cheap ( read: poor) product. That is,it's poor quality regarding what I need it for. Hope this clears up any confusion
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln


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