ignition retard on starting
#1
Junior Member
APPRENTICE
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 19
ignition retard on starting
i have a 406 sbc with 12.3;1 comp, ive gone threw two flywheels and a few starters. NO the motor isnt siezed it turns by hand and runs great once it starts. My problem the starter turns the motor over a few revolutions then gets stuck on the flywheel and just goes to town grinding the teeth off.
I got a brand new flywheel in and a high torque starter fro powermaster on the way( a litlle over kill) now a friend of mine mentions due to me running around 38-40degrees of timing i should get a timing retard box for just under starting conditions ive neer dealt with anything i didn't think the motor would really need it but looking for some other opions i was just going to try to start with fresh flywheel and starter that deffintaly works but i dont want to destroy another round of parts
I got a brand new flywheel in and a high torque starter fro powermaster on the way( a litlle over kill) now a friend of mine mentions due to me running around 38-40degrees of timing i should get a timing retard box for just under starting conditions ive neer dealt with anything i didn't think the motor would really need it but looking for some other opions i was just going to try to start with fresh flywheel and starter that deffintaly works but i dont want to destroy another round of parts
#2
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Montvale, VA
Posts: 1,431
I dont like to talk bad about anything,but i had a powermaster ultra xs starter that strained when starting my pump gas 496 11:1 comp.Was supposed to be good for 600 ci and 16:1 comp. fooey. Threw it on the shelf for a spare and put on a factory GM mini starter like you can get for the late model duallies.I think mine is for a 1999 454.Of course you have a sbc,but that factory mini starter ran (still is 3 years later)circles around any aftermarket mini i ever owned.If you have the staggered mounting holes you can use it.Run about $100 with no core charge.Only other "aftermarket" mini starter i ever had good luck with was a tuff stuff ,which turned out to be a re-packaged GM mini.HAHA Go figure :lol: As far as the flexplate,there alot of different sfi approved out there,i've been using chromoly ones lately.Not any more expensive,just gotta know which brand to buy to get the CM ones.Had good luck with that.Just my two cents...probably not worth that much
#5
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: EUGENE,OR.
Posts: 3,391
This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
#6
My Power Master is several years old and turns my 632 with 15.8 compression like a toy. Yes, retarding the timing at startup will help it crank a lot easier. Also make sure you have a good battery with a good ground and positive wire.
#7
Originally Posted by Rigsby
This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
I've this same setup on both my current and all my past race cars,drag-circle-road race. I have NEVER torn up a flywheel/flexplate-starter during startup using this system.
#8
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 496
Originally Posted by Rigsby
This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
#9
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: EastWenatchee,WA
Posts: 887
Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
Originally Posted by Rigsby
This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.
Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
I have a starter button and a seperate ignition switch
I start a 13.2 to1 motor with a $100 cheap mini starter has worked for 2 yrs racing, I have 33 deg fixed and I dont have a start retard box