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Thread: ignition retard on starting

  1. #1
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    ignition retard on starting

    i have a 406 sbc with 12.3;1 comp, ive gone threw two flywheels and a few starters. NO the motor isnt siezed it turns by hand and runs great once it starts. My problem the starter turns the motor over a few revolutions then gets stuck on the flywheel and just goes to town grinding the teeth off.

    I got a brand new flywheel in and a high torque starter fro powermaster on the way( a litlle over kill) now a friend of mine mentions due to me running around 38-40degrees of timing i should get a timing retard box for just under starting conditions ive neer dealt with anything i didn't think the motor would really need it but looking for some other opions i was just going to try to start with fresh flywheel and starter that deffintaly works but i dont want to destroy another round of parts

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I dont like to talk bad about anything,but i had a powermaster ultra xs starter that strained when starting my pump gas 496 11:1 comp.Was supposed to be good for 600 ci and 16:1 comp. fooey. Threw it on the shelf for a spare and put on a factory GM mini starter like you can get for the late model duallies.I think mine is for a 1999 454.Of course you have a sbc,but that factory mini starter ran (still is 3 years later)circles around any aftermarket mini i ever owned.If you have the staggered mounting holes you can use it.Run about $100 with no core charge.Only other "aftermarket" mini starter i ever had good luck with was a tuff stuff ,which turned out to be a re-packaged GM mini.HAHA Go figure :lol: As far as the flexplate,there alot of different sfi approved out there,i've been using chromoly ones lately.Not any more expensive,just gotta know which brand to buy to get the CM ones.Had good luck with that.Just my two cents...probably not worth that much
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  3. #3
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Small block 400's use a 164 tooth flex plate,try useing a msd starter saver it retards the timing 4 to 12 degrees on start up and it gives you steadier timing thas what i use on my 406

  4. #4
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
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    I think the starter saver is like 10 degrees or 20 degrees depending on whether you cut the wire or not. It does work good though!
    If you have a 7al3 box it has a 20 degree retard you can use. 8)

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:

    I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.

    Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
    "I would walk through hell on Sunday before I fear the enemy"

  6. #6
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheRabbit's Avatar
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    My Power Master is several years old and turns my 632 with 15.8 compression like a toy. Yes, retarding the timing at startup will help it crank a lot easier. Also make sure you have a good battery with a good ground and positive wire.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheYellaBrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigsby
    This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:

    I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.

    Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
    Scoot,
    I've this same setup on both my current and all my past race cars,drag-circle-road race. I have NEVER torn up a flywheel/flexplate-starter during startup using this system.


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  8. #8
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigsby
    This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:

    I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.


    Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
    allstar performance makes a switch to do this,part number 80140

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
    Quote Originally Posted by Rigsby
    This is a little cheesy, but it worked when I was way younger:

    I had to toggle-switch a dist once to "off" then crank motor & flip ign "on" while motor was already turning... fired up easy every time. I was too poor to afford any fancy delay box... used a good toggle & a fusible link into the dist.


    Go ahead... call me a jimmie-rigger. It worked. Scooter
    allstar performance makes a switch to do this,part number 80140
    after breaking a few starters, I got in the habit of always turning motor over and flipping ignition switch on after its turning over real good
    I have a starter button and a seperate ignition switch
    I start a 13.2 to1 motor with a $100 cheap mini starter has worked for 2 yrs racing, I have 33 deg fixed and I dont have a start retard box

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE mopar1968's Avatar
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    That is the same way i start mine get her turning over good and flip the ignition switch and she comes alive :!: 12.1 engine :!:


    Mark
    Head's up the true drag race!!


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