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Thread: Blown Alcohol

  1. #1

    Blown Alcohol

    We have a 15-1 CR 355 sbc built really stout and wondering if we can run a blower and alcohol at this compression ratio. if so how much boost?

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Re: Blown Alcohol

    [quote="skipjobe"]We have a 15-1 CR 355 sbc built really stout and wondering if we can run a blower and alcohol at this compression ratio. if so how much boost?[/quote
    (((IF)))You Even Think about it?Heres what I would Suggest?
    Put a .100 Copper Head Gasket on it,and Dont go Over 5% OD,acttually I would UNDERDRIVE it about 10% and see where Your Boost #'s are?
    I have ran some as High as 13.5.1.
    What Block are you Using?The More Head-Studs that you can get the Better!
    Later
    G 8)

  3. #3
    It is a bow tie block, if we could make 15# of boost it should make substantial power. The engine dyno run took it to 10.200 rpm. with 23 degree heads, jesel roller rockers.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    ???

    Quote Originally Posted by skipjobe
    It is a bow tie block, if we could make 15# of boost it should make substantial power. The engine dyno run took it to 10.200 rpm. with 23 degree heads, jesel roller rockers.
    [email protected]!
    10,200 Thats a BUNCH!
    15lbs should NOT be a Problem?
    later
    G 8)

  5. #5
    I know a guy who has a 540 blown alcohol S-10 now in a ZR1 I think he has a 15to 1 CR but I have not been able to make contact, I would like to hear from someone who has actually had success with this type set up. Before a final decision on this motor. Thanks for your input.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Depending on what you want it too do. I have/had a 360" with 11.00 to one, Flattops with 58cc portd heads. I lost some bearings and hurt the crank it's going back as a 383" motor with flattops. It's better too have a little less compression and spin the blower harder to get the boost, because of flame travel in the combustion chamber. In my case this is a 1471 Littlefield with a buzzard catcher, spinning at 20% OD, making 35lbs boost. There are other problems involved when supercharging a sm/blk, first and formost you either have too have a big blk snout on the crank or you have too run a crank support on the front of the crank. I run the crank support which is not cheap, but it keeps the front hub on the engine (about $1200.00)
    Mine did run 4.62 before it hurt the bearings. Below is a vid in the garage, oil not a problem, leaking valve cover. I'm behind the camera on this vid.

    Zip.

    http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...3485455&hl=en#

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    If you ran a old gm blower that spins really easy i would like to see it turn on. Dont put a new tight blower on something like that, you dont need lots of boost to make it turn on with a static compression that high and a high hp engine. Make sure you have some good copper gaskets, oringed block and head studs. As long as you tune it and keep it cool and dont lift the heads off the block it should lay down a serious numbers.

  8. #8
    You ran a 4.62 in a Monte Carlo I guess that is what 35 pounds of boost will do, your video made me laugh I love the way that motor tries to idle. What caused the bearings to fail, detonation or an oiling problem? Who is the manufacturer of the crank support? I went with a turbo on my 383 because of the sbc problem with breaking the crank snout.
    I hear you on the tune, boost and tune are deadly important, the short block is complete, I have heard you can o ring the heads, this is not a budget build but we don't want to waste money. When you say an older gm blower, are you saying an older design opposed to one that is loose from wear? Good information thanks to all.

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Quote Originally Posted by skipjobe
    You ran a 4.62 in a Monte Carlo I guess that is what 35 pounds of boost will do, your video made me laugh I love the way that motor tries to idle. What caused the bearings to fail, detonation or an oiling problem? Who is the manufacturer of the crank support? I went with a turbo on my 383 because of the sbc problem with breaking the crank snout.
    I hear you on the tune, boost and tune are deadly important, the short block is complete, I have heard you can o ring the heads, this is not a budget build but we don't want to waste money. When you say an older gm blower, are you saying an older design opposed to one that is loose from wear? Good information thanks to all.
    NoNoNo, it didn't go 4.62 in my Malibu, that thing weighs 3250lbs. The motor as you saw in the vid is in my friends very ugly 63 Dodge Dart, that weighs 2400lbs and the track was a short 1/8 (620ft) The engine failed due to a cylinder wall crack near the top of the cylinder which caused the one piston to melt down to the top ring, then blowing out 4 qts. of oil starving the mains and rods, spinning 2 main bearings. I was running an o-ringed blk and reciever grooves in the heads with .043 soft copper gaskets. It was a stock 010 blk with steel 4 bolt main caps, studded everywhere, including head studs.
    I also run the Summers bros. front distributor drive and oil pump drive #'s 402100 and 402100A

    http://www.summersbrothersracing.com...r%20drives.htm

    Front crank support RCD, #'s RCD-202200-0002,RCD-202203-0020,and RCD-201010-0010, purchased at Good Viberations.

    http://www.dragparts.com/

    It definately cost lots of money to keep a sm/blk blower motor together. I'm going to try the ICS o'ringed copper gaskets on the 383 when it goes back together.

    Zip.

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Yes a Detroit blower like everyone origonally started out using. I have had 100 percent good luck with a stainless oring in the block, sce copper gaskets and no groove in the head. I have re used the gaskets more time than i could count.


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