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Thread: race fuel getting old and static draw

  1. #1

    race fuel getting old and static draw

    does one need to worry when you buy a barrel of lets say vp 110 that is sealed, standing on a concrete floor for 1 or 2 years where the temp ranges from 100 above to 25 below, I wonder about condensation and water in the fuel. My dealer assures me a no on that because the barrel is factory sealed.
    Also bought a pro systems carb and it comes with static draw numbers on its flow sheet, just wondering if someone can tell me what the static draw rattings mean
    Last question is if some of you use any kind of pre water filter on your race fuel when pumping it from its barrel?

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Mar 2003


    I Cant help you with the Static Draw?BUT,I can tell you that IF you Did NOT put a couple of 2x4's under that Drum of Fuel?Chances are,it will have some Moister Problems???I can Not beleive that the Dealer did Not tell you That?
    I was aVP Dealer for over 15yrs and we always told our customers to store the Drums on some type of WOOD!
    GOOD Luck!
    G 8)

  3. #3

    fuel moisture

    thanks for your imput, I was thinking along the same lines

  4. #4

    race fuel

    There must be a date on race fuel even though they say once in a sealed barrel it never gets old, what do you think or better yet what do you know?

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    May 2006
    If the drum is full (54 gallons in a 55 gallon drum) then the only air space is the gap at the top.
    If the drum is air-tight (factory sealed) then how can water get in?

    The only water that could possible be in the drum would be from the mositure in the air when the fuel was put in, and I'm thinking that would only be a fairly small amount.

    Sorry but I'm not following this mind set that water can get in a air tight metal drum?

    I'd tried to chew him down since it is old fuel, it which will break down over time, though I'm not sure what the life span is on race gasl but it isnt as fresh as it was when it came from the refinery.

    JMO< Cp
    ***IN GOD WE TRUST***

  6. #6

    race fuel

    heck I dont know, except that when I took the carb apart and it ran over the work bench the water and fuel seperated and I was amazed, not to mention the white crap all over inside the carb I had to scrap off, just wondering where all this moisture is from, thanks guys

  7. #7
    Can't the metal drum sweat?

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE oldandtired's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Sugar Hill, GA
    Here is my standard operating proceedure for resealing opened drums of fuel and opened cans of paint (household or automotive) at the shop.

    I remove the power strap in my mig gun, set the wire feed as low as it will go (or pull the wire out) and pump CO2 into the drum or can to replace as much air as possible.

    Works for me.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing" Edmund Burke

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheRabbit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Augusta, Ga.
    My thoughts are; I donít see how a sealed drum can have condensate in it even if has been sitting around for a year or two. For the sake of probably not everyone is gonna agree about this, even if it did have a small bit of condensation where is it gonna be? In the bottom of the tank. I never us the last drop out of any tank. Thatís usually where all the crummy stuff like rust, water and algae (if itís diesel ) so I just donít pour that in anything.
    As far as it being two years old, I would have to ask VP about that. My fuel ( Q16) is probably close to a year and a half or more. I buy it in the beginning of the year, itís probably 6 months or older by the time I get it and it takes me all year and sometimes even left over till the following year to use it all. I agree, I would ask for a discount for buying it.

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