2x4 barrle eldabrock

Old 04-29-2009, 01:00 PM
  #1  
FullTimeRacing
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Orleans,La
Posts: 515
Default 2x4 barrle eldabrock

I have a 64 biscane 400ci double hump heads, it runs about 210 to 230 degress( i know my spelling sucks) runs great till it gets to 210.

I notice fuel bubbling out of the rear bowls,and allso fuel is bubbling in the glass fuel filter. Is this vapor lock?

Ive covered and moved all fuel lines to get them out of the heat.the best that i could.

it dose not have spacers under the carbs.
FullTimeRacing is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 04:20 PM
  #2  
Tod74
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,137
Default

2 questions

1) Why do you run it at 210-230 deg ?
2) Have the heads had steam holes drilled in them?
Tod74 is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 04:39 PM
  #3  
FullTimeRacing
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Orleans,La
Posts: 515
Default

the car is not mine it's in my shop.

not sure if it has stem holes

it has two eletric fans,big aluminum radiator and a belt drive stock water pump,also has a/c

it's border line race car/street machine 292 cam 3000 stall 3.73 gears.

the steem holes that would make it run hot?

the guy is comforble with it that hot.
FullTimeRacing is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 04:51 PM
  #4  
Tod74
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,137
Default

I have a chevelle with an 11:1 400 with a 4000 stall and 4.10 gears and it never got over 190 deg on the street
Tod74 is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 05:03 PM
  #5  
FullTimeRacing
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Orleans,La
Posts: 515
Default

I don't think he knows what the motor has done to it ,he just wants to DRIVE.

So I will see if I can get it to run cooler .
FullTimeRacing is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 10:06 PM
  #6  
cepx111
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,044
Default

230 that's pretty warm, plenty warm enough to cause vapor lock, which is more than likely your running problem.


I'd start with a 160 thermostat and next a HV aluminum water pump.
Also, if theres to much anitfreeze it the cooling system it will run on the warm side, glycol doesnt depsipate heat as well as water does.

Run 15% antifreeze to 85% water ratio for corrosion protection then add a pint of red line water wetter, that stuff really works.
Goodluck, Cp
cepx111 is offline  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:26 AM
  #7  
oldandtired
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
oldandtired's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sugar Hill, GA
Posts: 1,365
Default

I think Tod74 is right on with his second question.
If you have to pull the heads to drill the holes use an intake gasket that blocks the exhaust heat transfer to the intake and under the carb.
Good luck, Dave
oldandtired is offline  
Old 04-30-2009, 06:05 PM
  #8  
FullTimeRacing
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Orleans,La
Posts: 515
Default

so I pulled the T-stat out it was one of thoes high flow 160's, put in a stock type 180 and i was able to drive alot longer

It was about 200 degrese when I got on the interstate.started climbing , got to 220 ,got off interstate started acting up and killed.

got back to the shop ,truned off the a/c and let it idle ,cooled off to 200 in about 10-15 min.

so i'm looking at the car and notice that there is a filler below the grill that cuts the radiater in half and the bumper blocks the lower half.So at speed the air flow is cut in half.

also the intake is being heated by the exhaust tranfer like oldandtired said.

thanks for all the input
FullTimeRacing is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -