crank trigger
04-04-2009, 12:25 PM
#2
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JUNIOR BUILDER
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Watsontown Pa.
Posts: 73
It depends what you are installing it on. I had to buy special tools to install one in my pontiac 1999 because it was in the front of the timing cover. Lots to remove. It was not difficult to replace the one in my son's jeep as it was in the bell housing and held on by two bolts. So it depends on what it is you are working on.
04-04-2009, 02:06 PM
#3
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DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rifle Colorado
Posts: 585
Any crank triggers I've installed are a snap to install. I assume you're talking about race/aftermarket setups like MSD, Mallory .........may have to shim brackets to center the pickup on the trigger wheel, and same with pulleys for alternator and such if you run them. The trigger wheel mounts directly to the balancer and moves pulleys forward 1/4". You'll have to lock out the advance in the distributor and phase the rotor after setting timing. Timing is adjusted by moving the pickup, not the distributor, but it's easy.......and timing is rock solid once it's set!
04-04-2009, 02:54 PM
#4
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RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pelahatchie, MS
Posts: 1,005
Originally Posted by johnracer
Any crank triggers I've installed are a snap to install. I assume you're talking about race/aftermarket setups like MSD, Mallory .........may have to shim brackets to center the pickup on the trigger wheel, and same with pulleys for alternator and such if you run them. The trigger wheel mounts directly to the balancer and moves pulleys forward 1/4". You'll have to lock out the advance in the distributor and phase the rotor after setting timing. Timing is adjusted by moving the pickup, not the distributor, but it's easy.......and timing is rock solid once it's set!
04-04-2009, 05:55 PM
#6
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DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rifle Colorado
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Set the timing first. To set timing, turn crank by hand, to your desired timing. If you run 36 degrees, align timing pointer with the 36 degree mark, then center the pickup on the closest magnet, tighten the bolts and you're done. Check the timing with a timing light to make sure it's correct then phase distributor.
The best way is to drill a hole in the top of a spare cap inline with the #1 post. Start the engine and shine your timing light at the hole. You'll be able to see the rotor tip when the light flashes. It helps to put a white mark on the rotor tip. Turn the dist to align the tip with the #1 post and tighten it down. You're done. Be sure to put your non-drilled cap back on and go racing!
Later,
Johnny
The best way is to drill a hole in the top of a spare cap inline with the #1 post. Start the engine and shine your timing light at the hole. You'll be able to see the rotor tip when the light flashes. It helps to put a white mark on the rotor tip. Turn the dist to align the tip with the #1 post and tighten it down. You're done. Be sure to put your non-drilled cap back on and go racing!
Later,
Johnny
04-05-2009, 04:10 AM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Orleans,La
Posts: 515
Originally Posted by johnracer
Set the timing first. To set timing, turn crank by hand, to your desired timing. If you run 36 degrees, align timing pointer with the 36 degree mark, then center the pickup on the closest magnet, tighten the bolts and you're done. Check the timing with a timing light to make sure it's correct then phase distributor.
The best way is to drill a hole in the top of a spare cap inline with the #1 post. Start the engine and shine your timing light at the hole. You'll be able to see the rotor tip when the light flashes. It helps to put a white mark on the rotor tip. Turn the dist to align the tip with the #1 post and tighten it down. You're done. Be sure to put your non-drilled cap back on and go racing!
Later,
Johnny
The best way is to drill a hole in the top of a spare cap inline with the #1 post. Start the engine and shine your timing light at the hole. You'll be able to see the rotor tip when the light flashes. It helps to put a white mark on the rotor tip. Turn the dist to align the tip with the #1 post and tighten it down. You're done. Be sure to put your non-drilled cap back on and go racing!
Later,
Johnny
I installed a msd C/T three weeks ago and was a breeze,I only had a alt to deal with.
went to the track saturday and it was the most consistant it has ever been
04-05-2009, 05:32 AM
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rifle Colorado
Posts: 585
Originally Posted by montecarlo84
Originally Posted by johnracer
Set the timing first. To set timing, turn crank by hand, to your desired timing. If you run 36 degrees, align timing pointer with the 36 degree mark, then center the pickup on the closest magnet, tighten the bolts and you're done. Check the timing with a timing light to make sure it's correct then phase distributor.
The best way is to drill a hole in the top of a spare cap inline with the #1 post. Start the engine and shine your timing light at the hole. You'll be able to see the rotor tip when the light flashes. It helps to put a white mark on the rotor tip. Turn the dist to align the tip with the #1 post and tighten it down. You're done. Be sure to put your non-drilled cap back on and go racing!
Later,
Johnny
The best way is to drill a hole in the top of a spare cap inline with the #1 post. Start the engine and shine your timing light at the hole. You'll be able to see the rotor tip when the light flashes. It helps to put a white mark on the rotor tip. Turn the dist to align the tip with the #1 post and tighten it down. You're done. Be sure to put your non-drilled cap back on and go racing!
Later,
Johnny
I installed a msd C/T three weeks ago and was a breeze,I only had a alt to deal with.
went to the track saturday and it was the most consistant it has ever been
Johnny
