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Thread: weld it or replace it?

  1. #1
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    weld it or replace it?

    this is the trans in my truck. ive already got another case. would you swap cases are weld it?





  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    i would swap for sure, what type tranny mount do you have? rubber or solid.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE fla1976's Avatar
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    Housing

    If it were mine, I would check on an "Ultrabell". Seems like the perfect candidate. I'd also try to find out why it broke. Is the tranny mount intact?

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Not uncommon at all. Looks like a good start to a new Ultrabell.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    JW makes a ultra bell that requires the removal of the damaged area on your trans shown in the photo. The new bell housing bolts directly over the oil pump and requires longer fasteners and stato seals on the bolts and you would be set. The housing is SFI approved and does not require any other additional shielding for the flex plate. They sell new for about 150 bucks or so and have all possible bolt patterns available. This is how a ford could use a GM 400 or..... Just thought I would point out the simple fix potential.
    You know how you broke it right? If so you might have a clue what you may have damaged in the case internally. Pump bushing etc. Be sure you address what caused that failure prior to replacing with a new piece reguardless which way you go. And for the record, lots of Power does not do that, A twisting chassis or ridgid engine and trans mount in a flexing chassis could be in play.

    sorry I took so long to type it appears every one already knows this. did not mean to be redundant.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Th350's are a dime a dozen and take no time to build. Replace the case for sure!!!

  7. #7
    jw bell or case for sure. same as above with checking for a chassis twist problem. also be checking that driveshaft. remember even if it looks straight it could be twisting out of round under power if its too thin wall. real common problem with aluminum driveshafts. Had a guy with a 63 vette tube chassis mcamis car with aluminum mark williams driveshaft, 632 bbc big chief heads, twin toilets. he broke two cases before he told us about his aluminum driveshaft. installed a chrome moly driveshaft and never had a problem again.

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    What's you problem you've had 5 years to fix it? :lol:

    Zip.

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    im thinking it started from the old drive shaft being to long. maybe put a stress crack in it. then when i put the shorter shaft in it and took it for a spin it done that? thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Quote Originally Posted by lookingaround
    im thinking it started from the old drive shaft being to long. maybe put a stress crack in it. then when i put the shorter shaft in it and took it for a spin it done that? thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.
    The critical speed of a drive shaft is reduced as the length is increased. You have the benefit of looking at all the variables in your garage and hopefully doing it yourself, so if you had a drive shaft vibrate at speed due to exceeding it's critical speed (RPM) you likely are correct on the cause. Some guys try to weld up there own shafts and do not have a way to jig the ends in perfect phase which causes the drive shaft to whip when it is spun. The other possible cause can also be using excessive pinion angle. Remember that the U-joints angles on each end need to cancel each other out by being within .5 degree of each other or less at load. Example, having 1.5 degrees between the trans / engine angle and the drive shaft must be equal to the pinion angle at the other end at ride height and at load + - 1/2 degree. The acceptable resultant angles could be 1 deg to 2 degrees going down the track on the pinion end for the 1.5 degrees on the trans end of the shaft. I am sorry if I made this sound complicated, but it is easy to over simplify, I hope I did not make it hard to follow so you need to read it several times to try to follow it but it is not an opinion, and is critical to getting all your engine power to the ground and not into mechanical bind.
    Food for thought


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