rons toilet help
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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rons toilet help
im looking for a good starting set up 393w sbf 14.2 comp. vr jr heads (box stock) 650 inch roller in rear engine dragster it has 01/2 pump 30 nozzels and i have several pills from 82 to 110 ive talked to the the guru at rons he will give me no info only wants to sell me a 0 pump i have friends using this exact set up on 355 chevy motors with the 01/2 pump and other poeple using hilborn blown pumps on 468 bbc with rons toilet.maybe i dont get it but if yourpump is a little big why cant you just return the extra fuel back to the engine im not a rich guy just trying to use what i have any ideas?????????
#2
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Re: rons toilet help
Originally Posted by pintoracer
im looking for a good starting set up 393w sbf 14.2 comp. vr jr heads (box stock) 650 inch roller in rear engine dragster it has 01/2 pump 30 nozzels and i have several pills from 82 to 110 ive talked to the the guru at rons he will give me no info only wants to sell me a 0 pump i have friends using this exact set up on 355 chevy motors with the 01/2 pump and other poeple using hilborn blown pumps on 468 bbc with rons toilet.maybe i dont get it but if yourpump is a little big why cant you just return the extra fuel back to the engine im not a rich guy just trying to use what i have any ideas?????????
#3
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rons injection
yes it was the james monroe guy that everyone speaks so highly of he offered no help at all other than wanting me to spend money i have a egt but i cant seem to get the idle temps up past about 380 i had 32 nozzels in it so i droped them down to 30 trying to get idle temps up if i lean the barrell valve it develops a lean stumble when you whack the throttle and it still milks the hell out of the oil i have a 105 pill in it and am going to the track this sat maybe ill be able to tell better after a full pass to see where i stand egt wise
#4
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Re: rons injection
Originally Posted by pintoracer
yes it was the james monroe guy that everyone speaks so highly of he offered no help at all other than wanting me to spend money i have a egt but i cant seem to get the idle temps up past about 380 i had 32 nozzels in it so i droped them down to 30 trying to get idle temps up if i lean the barrell valve it develops a lean stumble when you whack the throttle and it still milks the hell out of the oil i have a 105 pill in it and am going to the track this sat maybe ill be able to tell better after a full pass to see where i stand egt wise
#5
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we started at 28% but ive leaned it a little from that i think i got it close today idleing around 460 degrees or so its responsive as hell i dont know if the pill is correct ill have to make a pass to see i welcome any other ideas
#7
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I agree with david you need larger nozzles, i would suggest 36's, i also runa 4.1 toilet with #36's in my 377" chevy, i also donot run a rons pump. Actually i started my leakdown at 25% and backed down to 18% for good response. I wouldn't worry too much about the idle egt temp. you can run an idle bypass and stop the milking. I don't run an idle bypas i just shut the fuel 1/2 way down to warm the engine and open it when i get ready to run, looking for about 1200/1300 on top end.
JMO
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JMO
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#9
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Join Date: May 2008
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while on subject of rons toilets....i got an issue thats been hurting us all last season. heres what i had (motor ended up dieing due to broken crank). 511 bbc. profiler cnc ported heads. sniper intake. 4.100 toilet. tried both O 1/2 billet and standard black pumps. started with .036 nozzles. leaned it back to .033 due to down track "popping". that fixed that. I never could get the motor to hit the converter hard until i put the small nozzles in it but even after nozzles in it, it still had a hesitation at hit. it would rev to 3500-3700 then hesitate for a split second then up to converter solid at 6200 (no chip). The only way i got it to cleanly go up against the converter was to lean it out on the barrel and it was too much to keep the motor temp to maintain and even keep the engine running at idle. Idle egt's would be 800-900 degrees. We backed the barrel off and just lived with it. I believe we were at 19% leak. Another note is we installed a higher pressure idle poppet inline to try get better fuel atomization and flow better. Which seemed to help out quite a bit itself.
We had this toilet throttle body/barrel valve assembly on two different motors and had the same issue. One engine was in a different car and they ordered a new toilet of the same model with the original setup with had (.036 nozzles, std idle pressure, etc. aka out of the box) and it ran perfect.
Anybody have any ideas or have ran into this problem? I'm leaning towards a barrel valve problem.
We had this toilet throttle body/barrel valve assembly on two different motors and had the same issue. One engine was in a different car and they ordered a new toilet of the same model with the original setup with had (.036 nozzles, std idle pressure, etc. aka out of the box) and it ran perfect.
Anybody have any ideas or have ran into this problem? I'm leaning towards a barrel valve problem.
#10
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Originally Posted by jed5161
while on subject of rons toilets....i got an issue thats been hurting us all last season. heres what i had (motor ended up dieing due to broken crank). 511 bbc. profiler cnc ported heads. sniper intake. 4.100 toilet. tried both O 1/2 billet and standard black pumps. started with .036 nozzles. leaned it back to .033 due to down track "popping". that fixed that. I never could get the motor to hit the converter hard until i put the small nozzles in it but even after nozzles in it, it still had a hesitation at hit. it would rev to 3500-3700 then hesitate for a split second then up to converter solid at 6200 (no chip). The only way i got it to cleanly go up against the converter was to lean it out on the barrel and it was too much to keep the motor temp to maintain and even keep the engine running at idle. Idle egt's would be 800-900 degrees. We backed the barrel off and just lived with it. I believe we were at 19% leak. Another note is we installed a higher pressure idle poppet inline to try get better fuel atomization and flow better. Which seemed to help out quite a bit itself.
We had this toilet throttle body/barrel valve assembly on two different motors and had the same issue. One engine was in a different car and they ordered a new toilet of the same model with the original setup with had (.036 nozzles, std idle pressure, etc. aka out of the box) and it ran perfect.
Anybody have any ideas or have ran into this problem? I'm leaning towards a barrel valve problem.
We had this toilet throttle body/barrel valve assembly on two different motors and had the same issue. One engine was in a different car and they ordered a new toilet of the same model with the original setup with had (.036 nozzles, std idle pressure, etc. aka out of the box) and it ran perfect.
Anybody have any ideas or have ran into this problem? I'm leaning towards a barrel valve problem.
JMO
Zip.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...12840303&hl=en