Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: 1987 g-body breaking trans cases? anybody have this problem?

  1. #1

    1987 g-body breaking trans cases? anybody have this problem?

    i have a 1987 cutlass, bbc, 9 in rear and most of a 10 point cage. (stock interior) i've had problems busting powerglide cases at the bell housing.
    i put on a ultra-bell and stopped that. now this weekend i cracked the main body. do i need more cage? the bars going out to through the firewall? any help would help. thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE mytmouz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Pelahatchie, MS
    Posts
    983
    Those g bodies do twist. For sure, I would do the rest of the 10 point cage.
    THen, check the driveline angles. Also, you might want to midplate it...
    If you think nobody cares, try missing a payment...

  3. #3
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    atwood,Ky
    Posts
    302
    what trans & engine mounts are you using?

  4. #4
    solid engine, poly mount on modified crossmember

  5. #5
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    atwood,Ky
    Posts
    302
    if you are using the stock style rear control arms you might need an anti-roll if the body is twisting .

  6. #6
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville s.c.
    Posts
    3,239
    2 QUESTIONS

    1- do you have a Front Plate ?

    2- Do you have Mid Plate ? As Terry mentioned above
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    La.
    Posts
    2,890
    I run the G body, and haven't had problems breaking the trans. I don't have down bars in the front but i do have a front motor plate, and i run the softer stock (not poly) rear trans mount. The only time i broke a trans case was when i broke a drive shaft and it pushes forward, actually i was running clips on the rear u-joint and it pulled the threads on the 5/16 bolts which cause the drive shaft to jump out of the rear yoke and go forward. Broke the trans in 8 pieces, the only thing holding it in the car was the converter, i put it back together with another case, didn't hurt anything and i was back in business.

    Zip.

  8. #8
    i'm running stock suspension, adjustable upper and lower control arms, custom cut drive shaft. i'm now thinking i might have a balance issue with the crankshaft. the engine vibrates the car pretty good. the cam in the motor has around .680 lift, so i was thinking the shaking was from this. i was told this could be a problem. so now its on with more cage and send the rotating assembly to the machine shop. i'm going to eliminate these two problems anyway. thanks for the info. i was hoping somebody had these types of problems to steer me right. i will post what i find.

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    La.
    Posts
    2,890
    I did forget to mention mine is backhalfed 4 link, that may make it a little stiffer.

    Zip.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    florence ky
    Posts
    498
    Put a stock rubber mount on your trans and it should stop breaking the solid mount want give enough i used a poly mount and did the same thing changed it back to the rubber mount and never broke another one.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Copyright © 2005-2016 RacingJunk.com All Rights Reserved.

Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the RacingJunk.com
Terms of Use, Classifieds Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, and Cookie Policy