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Thread: billet crankshaft

  1. #1
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    billet crankshaft

    Has anyone used one of the billet cranks from ohio crankshaft? They are really good on price but I was wondering about the quality.Also wondering about their aluminum rods.Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Re: billet crankshaft

    Quote Originally Posted by michael1
    Has anyone used one of the billet cranks from ohio crankshaft? They are really good on price but I was wondering about the quality.Also wondering about their aluminum rods.Thanks
    When OC first came out they had some bad stuff but as of late they have put out some good parts. I wouldnt be affraid to use them.


    Not speaking of the alum rods just the crank .. never seen anyone use the alum rods they offer
    David Lanning
    IHRA NHRA 387B

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    419-280-1406
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  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    You beter check everything. I bought an unassembled shortblock from them. The crank measured great but after running it a short time the number 2 and number 4 main bearings were looking bad. It ended up the balance on the rotating assembly was off and the main bores in the block were too tight. Apparently,according to my machine shop guy, all of the new Merlin and Dart blocks usually need align honed and this one had not been. Glad I caught it before any damage was done...other than the bearings. That's what I get for not checking every bearing while assembling it...But the crank measured great..not tapered in the journals,which is what everyone says was their problem.

    Oh I just noticed the billet part....mine is just the forged crank. ops:

  4. #4
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    If I use the ohio billet crank and use a set of oliver rods do you think everything will be fine or should I go with a callies or howards crank.

  5. #5

    crank

    I use one of the Ohio Billet cranks.I have had good luck with their products.I know it is hard to do but you just have to make a decision on what to use.If you ask around enough you will hear bad things about almost any brand.Good luck.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael1
    If I use the ohio billet crank and use a set of oliver rods do you think everything will be fine or should I go with a callies or howards crank.
    Get the best one that you can afford.

  7. #7
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
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    crank

    try a cola crank I've been running the same cola crank for over 7 years in my Dragster , the whole life of a crank is the balancing ,at the end of the second year my bearing still look new I would put them into a street motor and not worry about it

  8. #8
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    Re: crank

    Quote Originally Posted by top2096
    try a cola crank I've been running the same cola crank for over 7 years in my Dragster , the whole life of a crank is the balancing ,at the end of the second year my bearing still look new I would put them into a street motor and not worry about it
    x2 on the balancing...i also had a cola several years ago with good luck..
    i now run Callies ( crank and rods)
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  9. #9
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Thanks for all the info,I decided I'm going with the callies crank.

  10. #10
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Tod74, curious, did your Ohio kit that was un-assembled I take it? Were any of the parts taken out of the packages? Like the rods taken out of the protective plastic, the bearings and rings opened? The pistons un-wrapped and taken out of the package? Just curious. I have seen that more than once, when guys bring in Pre=balanced rotating assemblies, because they can get a way better "deal". Not being sarcastic, just wanting to mention this, so all the guys looking at price, of what appears to be the exact same parts, what you are getting. I call it a generic balance job, and not a precision race balance job. The difference is just that. They take a "generic" bob weight, for similiar parts, that they weighed one piston, and one rod for, and use those figures, for everyone they do. This simplifies the balance job. Simply make up the bob weight for the generic specs, slam them on the crank, spin it up, drill a couple holes, and call it "Precision race balanced". What you really get, is a balance job, that is sorta close, but not really, 15 or so grams, is good enough, I mean, come on, what do you expect for that price? lol

    Frank


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