4 Wheel Disk Brake Question
06-01-2008, 05:32 PM
#1
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 57
4 Wheel Disk Brake Question
I have a 70 nova and installed a set of wilwood disk brakes on the rear and left the stock disk up front. I am having a issue with getting a good pedal. I have a 1 inch bore wilwood master with no p-valve.
The problem is the padel will travel very far when applied with front and rear brakes connected. If I block the front off the pedal moves maybe a 1/2 inch and gets rock hard. If I hook up the front and block off the back the padel travels well past the half way mark before getting hard.
I know the system is free of air, I put almost a gallon or fluid through the master.
My question is, does anyone else have this same set up if so how does the pedal feel. OR will i need to buy the wilwood fronts to balance out the system.
Thanks
The problem is the padel will travel very far when applied with front and rear brakes connected. If I block the front off the pedal moves maybe a 1/2 inch and gets rock hard. If I hook up the front and block off the back the padel travels well past the half way mark before getting hard.
I know the system is free of air, I put almost a gallon or fluid through the master.
My question is, does anyone else have this same set up if so how does the pedal feel. OR will i need to buy the wilwood fronts to balance out the system.
Thanks
06-01-2008, 06:30 PM
#2
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,523
Brakes
This is a repost from a prior question. I think it applies to your problem also.
I would bleed the system with a low pressure bleeder. That would keep any air in the system from being compressed and getting lodged somewhere. You can build one if you have a compressor, a pressure regulator, some flat 1/4 inch thick rubber material, some flat 1/4 inch steel and a quick connect fitting and a large "C" clamp. Cut the steel to a size that would cover the top of the master cylinder. Then cut a piece of flat rubber to the same dimensions. Glue the rubber to the steel plate. After it has cured, drill and tap a hole to accomodate the fitting. Install the fitting using teflon tape. Remove the master cylinder cover and fill the reservoir. Place the plate over the master cylinder, and clamp it it place with the clamp. Connect the regulator to the compressor and connect the regulator to the fitting on the master cylinder. Bring the pressure up to where the gauge on the low side of the reg just barely moves. Then bleed the system. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. After bleeding each wheel, remove the plate and refill the master cylinder. You don't want to introduce any air into the system. Be sure to crank the pressure down before removing the plate from the master cylinder. This will remove any air from your system and you will have a bleeder for future use. I got the design from a car magazine (don't remember which one) and it works great.
I would bleed the system with a low pressure bleeder. That would keep any air in the system from being compressed and getting lodged somewhere. You can build one if you have a compressor, a pressure regulator, some flat 1/4 inch thick rubber material, some flat 1/4 inch steel and a quick connect fitting and a large "C" clamp. Cut the steel to a size that would cover the top of the master cylinder. Then cut a piece of flat rubber to the same dimensions. Glue the rubber to the steel plate. After it has cured, drill and tap a hole to accomodate the fitting. Install the fitting using teflon tape. Remove the master cylinder cover and fill the reservoir. Place the plate over the master cylinder, and clamp it it place with the clamp. Connect the regulator to the compressor and connect the regulator to the fitting on the master cylinder. Bring the pressure up to where the gauge on the low side of the reg just barely moves. Then bleed the system. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. After bleeding each wheel, remove the plate and refill the master cylinder. You don't want to introduce any air into the system. Be sure to crank the pressure down before removing the plate from the master cylinder. This will remove any air from your system and you will have a bleeder for future use. I got the design from a car magazine (don't remember which one) and it works great.
