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Thread: HELP WITH RE-WIRE

  1. #1
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    decatur, il.
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    HELP WITH RE-WIRE

    I'M GOING TO REWIRE MY 72 CAMARO BRACKET RACE ONLY CAR. WHAT IS THE EASIEST AND BEST WAY TO DO THIS. I WAS THINKING OF USING THE PAINLESS 8 SWITCH CONTROL PANEL AND RUN EVERYTHING THRU RELAYS. (LIGHTS, FUEL PUMP, FAN, STARTER, ECT.). ANY SUGGESTIONS???? THANKS, BRIAN

  2. #2
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    The Painless panels are nice, but you might check out the K&R setup. It's more expensive, but includes everything and is easy to install.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I've done this both ways buying a trick switch panel and wiring it through relays and stuff myself. This year I went with the K&R Super Duty Switch Panel its a bit more then the painless but a lot less time and ALL the wires you will need are there. It has a nice wiring diagram that shows you how to wire everything. Nice switch panel. It comes with everything you need besides the tools.

    Saved me 2 weeks work with it ... by far the best and easiest way to wire a race car.

    Forgot to mention the wires are labeled end to end.
    David Lanning
    IHRA NHRA 387B

    Fleenor Racing Transmission
    419-280-1406
    Lanning Electric
    Complete Drag Car Wiring
    APD Race Engines
    www.apdracing.com

  4. #4
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    i really like the k & r setup. but i can get the painless wiring at wholesale so there is quite a diff. in price. i was thinking of using their 50001 fuse box kit with the 50201 8 switch dash mount kit. all circuits are fuse protected and go thru 30 amp relays. i'll figure something out. thanks for the info. brian

  5. #5

    Wiring info.. How I wired my PS 72 Nova.

    Resettable breaker for Alternator protection..

    http://www.evparts.com/prod-CB5510.htm

    SS 69SS... I couldn't find where I got mine, but I got this recommendation from "Wolf" ... on YellowBullet. Or.. you can go with this:

    https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...a/megafuse.php

    Slow blow fuse 150amp..

    I found mine in black.. cuz Im a cosmetics guy, lol.. but all the same.

    Good luck!

    I actually use Terminal Supply for most of my goodies.

    ... additional info:

    FYI -

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C+PAC-200.html

    I am using this guy to basically isolate all my cars electrical requirements from the alternator back-feed issue that can arise.

    Master Kill is turned on which feeds my remote starter solenoid fused at 250 amps (slow blow) .. through Mega fuse holder previously listed.

    From Master Kill to the PAC 200amp contactor listed - from this contactors load side I feed to my Dedenbear Relay Center MRC1, which basically feeds the entire cars electrical needs. ie. (Fuel pump, dual fans, water pump, ignition .. and electronics. )I've jumped off the line side of this cont. duty contactor with a #10 cu (fused at 30amps) conductor to my firewall and horn relay, which feeds power only to my lights and turn signals etc.. From the horn relay I send a #12 cu. to power to my Painless 6 switch panel. These switches are my trigger inputs for all my relays at the Dedenbear relay center - one of which is my ignition relay (feeds my Digital 6), which I use to also activate (open and close) the Continuous Duty 200amp Contactor. So, engine is dead when master kill is clicked off or when ignition is switched off... And NO Alternator Backfeed** cuz when I flip the ignition switch off it also takes power off my cont. duty contactor, opening (isolating) this main feed line to my relay center (ignition being the key)... killing everything but my lights.

    The alternator feed.. direct from alternator with 1/0 cu. feeds straight back to a the manual 150 amp resettable breaker previously listed and then to one of the positive terminals on battery.

    Hope this helps.


    __________________
    Jeff Mill
    JRacing Products
    Bellevue, WA.
    425-327-0810
    Top Name Sportsman Drag Race Components:
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    ... need further explanation..??? let me know.. glad to help.

  6. #6
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    I have wired at least 10 race cars completely and used only painless stuff.
    it is pretty easy and can be done quite nicely.
    you will need a relay bank, ground strap junction, heat shrink. and a bunch of connectors.
    I can completely wire a car in two days.
    AL

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    This is not meant to be rude or smart aleck,but when I rewired my car I just bought 4 or 5 rolls of 14 ga. wire(to have different colors) one roll of black 10 gauge,one roll of red 10 gauge and a mess of connectors.Most everything on a car uses a 1/4 female spade.A handful of relays (you can get 30 and 45 amp relays from Advance for $4 a piece).I spent about $75-80,I think.I'm sure it was well under $100 for the whole car.Most expensive part of the whole job was new headlight/tail light pigtails.I just can't see spending $300-400+ for a roll of labeled wire.Not trying to make fun of anyone for using a ready-made kit,just figured might save someone some $$$
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    There is more to it then just the wire though, it has a built in fuse and relay kit, its own switch panel with options of 12v/ign 12v & ground on the back of 3 of each if I remember right. Just the several wires, zip ties, heat shrink connectors would cost well over $150.00 alone, then toss in the labeled wire and circuit board its a very good deal. I've wired cars both ways buying it all myself and doing it and buying the kit its well worth it after you use it.
    David Lanning
    IHRA NHRA 387B

    Fleenor Racing Transmission
    419-280-1406
    Lanning Electric
    Complete Drag Car Wiring
    APD Race Engines
    www.apdracing.com

  9. #9
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Dec 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnracer
    The Painless panels are nice, but you might check out the K&R setup. It's more expensive, but includes everything and is easy to install.


    If you do the K&R setup our buddy Ron Owens Racing just got a deal with K&R and could maybe save you some $$$$$$$$$$$$ :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

  10. #10
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Rifle Colorado
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    Ironically, I just had a problem with my K&R this Saturday. It really wasn't a problem with the setup, more a matter of me being lazy and not rechecking the screws that attach the wiring to the relay board.
    I was sitting in the water box in the final round and the fuel pump quit! Melted the terminal strip on the board.
    Spoke withe Kevin at K&R yesterday. Really nice people to deal with and offered to repair it under warrantee. Bought a new board anyway due to racing in Denver this weekend, and will send the other in for a spare.
    Can't say enough good about K&R customer service,
    Johnny


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