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Thread: welders

  1. #1
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
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    welders

    i'm still looking to try and buy welder..is the clark 180en welder worth buying.i'm on tight budget but need welder to do my cage..mig i have now is only 80amp craftsman.fear it isn't big enough..also looking at the millermatic 140 auto set.but is close to $300 more money on e-bay.

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I would not buy any welder that wasn't 220. I have a Hobart that welds great... Every 110v I have ever tried wasn't worth a hoot in my opinion.

  3. #3
    Member JUNIOR BUILDER
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    if you,r looking to buy a welder, i would not buy anything less than a 175 amp minimum. you won't get good penetration with anything less. also look for name brand so repair parts are avalible. just my .02 worth

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    i agree with both statement,s, hobart, miller,lincoln, all make good welders. however haveing enough amprage, to do the job is key, something in the 175 range, is as low as i would go for that job.

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    They are right,120v welders are not good for anything concerning chassis on a car.I have a hobart 250 I got from Northern equipment.It was a dispay and the regulator was missing.Gave $200 for the welder,then got a new regulator for another $50 or so.Look around and see if you can find a deal like that.But DO NOT buy a 120v welder,please
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  6. #6
    Senior Member SENIOR BUILDER
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    I agree with everyone on the 110's. But unfortunately some of us live in older places that don't have 220 hook ups. I have a 110 Millermatic and not a pro, but have seen a pro use a 110 unit and think the way he did it would have held up fine. But again unless your really good with 1, the above statements hold true. LOL, I've had mine for 10 years and bet the darn thing hasn't had 5 hours of use.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I lied.My box is a Hobart handler 175,not a 250.Burns 1/4" steel like buttah.Don't know if you would need anything bigger or not,don't think so.
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE lively's Avatar
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    I HAVE A HOBART----110 VOLT---VERY GOOD WELDER----BUT IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE [DIG DEEPER IN THE NEST EGG AND BUY THE STRONGER ONE---NAME BRAND THAT YOU CAN REPAIR]----------LIVELY

  9. #9
    Junior Member JOURNEYMAN
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    welders

    You also need to look at the duty cycle. And as mentioned get a 220 welder only. Get the most amps and highest duty cycle you can afford. Just like they say in racing there is no substitute for horsepower there is no substitute for a heavy duty welder. The 110 welders are low duty cycle and blow the breakers after only a very short weld period. The newer ones coming out may be better but you would have a hard time convincing me to buy one. Just my two cents.

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds48
    They are right,120v welders are not good for anything concerning chassis on a car.I have a hobart 250 I got from Northern equipment.It was a dispay and the regulator was missing.Gave $200 for the welder,then got a new regulator for another $50 or so.Look around and see if you can find a deal like that.But DO NOT buy a 120v welder,please
    you got a steal if you paid 200 bucks. They don't sell the 175 anymore, just the 180 to my knowledge...but the 175 used to sell for $675.00

    I have a 175 I use for body repair and it is an excellent welder for the money.

    A good MILLER is the best in my opinion but expensive. I have never used their smaller,cheaper stuff but have worked with their big stuff (3 phase delta weld 450) for years at work and I love em. Vey heavy duty.


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