solid lifters to hydraulic
#1
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JUNIOR BUILDER
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 72
solid lifters to hydraulic
guys i have a roller cam solid lifter i'm almost done with my car it's so tight the valve covers will take an hour to get off an i will have to disconnect the heater and ac lines can i put hydraulic lifters with this cam and if not how often do you have to adjust solid lifter cams thanks zano
#3
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JUNIOR BUILDER
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it is a very large cam if specs help i'll post them it is a street rod that i'll take to the strip some. engine builder said about every 3000 miles but he is a big b.s. er so i'm looking for more opinions thanks zano
#4
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JOURNEYMAN
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 30
I agree, don't think hydraulic lifters will work since the lobe is designed totally different. The best place to ask would be the company that manufactured the cam. Also, in my opinion you can't go by mileage, I think the lash should be checked somewhat frequently to prevent problems. Chris
#5
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RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 658
You can put solid lifters on a hydraulic cam (roller to roller), but you can NOT put hydraulic lifters on a solid cam (roller to roller).
Like has previously been said, the ramp profiles will be considerably different.
Your best bet would be to call the cam manufacturer and ask them if they can correct the cam to a hyd profile instead of solid.
As for checking valve lash... I've rarely found anything out of adjustment when using a stud girdle. When using Poly-locks, it seemed like I was needing to check it before every race weekend. Inevitably one of the locks would either back off if not tightened enough, or would split if over tightened.
Like has previously been said, the ramp profiles will be considerably different.
Your best bet would be to call the cam manufacturer and ask them if they can correct the cam to a hyd profile instead of solid.
As for checking valve lash... I've rarely found anything out of adjustment when using a stud girdle. When using Poly-locks, it seemed like I was needing to check it before every race weekend. Inevitably one of the locks would either back off if not tightened enough, or would split if over tightened.
#8
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DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: VA Hospital, Dallas, Tx (214 302 1924) cell-972-464-7400
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The only way you can go to hydraulic to my knowledge has already been discussed.
I do question this statement though.
How do you know this? I aqm assuming you are talking about that it is a pump gas street engine and you have seen dyno charts? The dyno charts are not done with the complete car attached if you are talking about a crate engine from a known seller. If the horsepower peak is 6,200 rpm, it is still making power several more hundered rpm or should be.
Ed
I do question this statement though.
thought a stud girdle was for high rpms this is a 632 it starts losing power at 6200 will the girdle still help ?
Ed
#9
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JUNIOR BUILDER
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 72
dyno
i have not looked at the dyno specs in a couple months so i just went up to my garage and dug them out it's not even 6200 here are the last 4 rpms shown on sheet.5800 rpm-hp. 940, torq. 851.1 ; 5900 rpm -944.8 hp 841 torq. 6000 rpm -hp. 945.7 ,827.9 torq. 6100 rpm.-942 hp. , 810.8 torq. the torq.actualy started dropping off at 5800 at 5700 it was 858.1 . the hp started dropping at 6000. i told the builder i didn't want high rpms because its a street car. at least he got that right . and he sent me the dyno sheet and also said girdle doesn't do any good at these rpms. but if your right maybe i should put 1 on just so i don't have to adjust valves as much. what do you think zano
#10
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RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,137
I would run a stud girdle...but I would still check the lash pretty often. It is a good way to catch problems before they get too serious such as a roller lifter taking a puke. If a lifter goes you could lose the whole engine.
JMO
JMO