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Thread: Chassis Help

  1. #1
    NEED HELP! i purchased a all chrome moly tube chassis but i have to purchase the struts and finish putting them on along with the strut bars and buying the four link kit and wishbone and installing it. i would like to know if anyone knows of a chassis book with maybe some pic's i can purchase to help me finish setting the frame up.

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebad48tk
    NEED HELP! i purchased a all chrome moly tube chassis but i have to purchase the struts and finish putting them on along with the strut bars and buying the four link kit and wishbone and installing it. i would like to know if anyone knows of a chassis book with maybe some pic's i can purchase to help me finish setting the frame up.
    Did you purchase the chassis from the mfg. or a private party? The reason i ask is that Alston, gave me a blueprint with my tube chassis showing all the dimensions. If you know who the chassis builder is i'm sure they have blueprints.

    Zip.

  3. #3

    chassis

    no i traded an individual, i no the wheel base it is going to be 103. but i need to see where to weld the strut brace tabs on and ect. the chassis is certified for 750 right now and was built in co. in 2004 according to the cert. paper.it was built for a 96 mustang or equivilent, :lol:

  4. #4
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE
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    http://www.jerrybickel.com/info.html

    I have this chassis book called complete guide to chassis performance from Jerry Bickel I ordered it direct there and spoke personally to Jerry.
    I also bought his 4 link program from him,but I see now he has other modules to chose from.

    I can tell you the things I have are a very good tool for what you are doing

    Like I said I got the 4 link wizard and the chassis book they were a good investment and lots of info

    Plus read the sticky about that edvanced engines wrote lots of good info there,here is the link

    http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtopic.php?t=2363
    There Is 1 Thing Better Than Cubic Inches,,,More Of Them

  5. #5

    chassis

    yeah thanks for the info i was reading the article and its alot of help thank's.

  6. #6
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
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    what car is this going in, (my memory is bad, not sure what cars everyone is working on these days....) Is there 4 link brackets already on the chassis?
    You almost need to mount the body over it to determine where the rear axle should be. Try to determine what ride hite the chassis should be at, and how low you want the body off the ground, min 3" at nose, 2" ok 12" behind front spindle....
    once you have the rear axle location figured out, it is a simple matter to measure up to where the front spindles should be. 103" If you want stagger in there, then driver side would be 103.5", passenger put it at 102.5"
    Make up a couple of strut jigs with the holes for the spindles at the center of the tire size you want to use. 2x3 square works well, use a 6' piece of 2x3 on the floor, tack weld the spindle jigs to 2x2 angle iron pieces, offset for the stagger, place this all under the frame with the jigs c-clamped to the 2x3 on the floor, move this all around till you get them where they need to be. Caster should be 7-10 degrees back at the top, and camber 0, use one of those digital angle finders,
    Make up a 1" spacer to put in the strut between the strut and stopper for ride hite.
    You can use whatever method you like for the top mount, I like to make up a plate and weld it to the tube, make up a cardboard template for this, and cut it out of a peice of moly, or you can buy the mount from mcamis, bickele etc, also the a-arm tabs from them...
    bend the top brackets to follow the tube somewhat, this also gives it bracing, but I like to add a peice of bracing in there anyways...just a small peice of plate shaped to fit the tube and bracket.
    It is now a simple matter to mount the tabs for the a-arms, the rear one should be 2" or so back from the spindle cl of 103" and the front as far forward as practical.
    Make up your a-arms, be careful, you do not make them too short , otherwise you will have a lot of rod end thread sticking out, not a good thing, try for max of 3-5 threads for final front end adjustment.
    The rack should also be mounted at the same time as the struts, so you have no suprises with bump steer.

    you can do all this on the garage floor, use the digital level to level everything up, and once you have everything set, be careful not to bump anything.
    If you do it all on the floor, you can see where everything is going to be, take your time, measure lots, and tack everything . Weld only when you are sure it is correct.
    good luck,
    I have some pics on my computer, (website is now officially shut down) I can email you if you pm me your addy...
    Ed

  7. #7

    frame

    thanks ed, the pieces that the struts bolt to are already welded on, i just have to figure out where to weld up the tabs for the bars that stablelize them. the chasis was built for a 95 mustang which i dont realy care for so i'm in the process of finding some other body to use. it has a wheel base of 98 to 103 wheel base. four link tabs have been installed already. any other body suggestions. maybe in the gm department. :mrgreen:

  8. #8

    chassis

    it also has the rack mounts welded on.

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Re: chassis

    Quote Originally Posted by onebad48tk
    it also has the rack mounts welded on.

    ???, is this a round tube or rectangular tube chassis, if it's rect. i have the setup sheet for a strut mount with my A.R.T. chassis, but my Alson round tube chassis is an a-arm type. but i do have a blueprint on it.

    PS, Ed knows, he builds lots of them.

    Zip.

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    here is a quick review catalog from chris alston engineering, they
    gave me a good insite to installing a 4 lind and roll bar and front
    clip good luck :?
    http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_how_to.html


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