fuel lines
#3
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 272
buy the time you buy aluminum line and all the little fittings, you may as well spend a couple more bucks and get the braided.
Do not run aluminum line directly to electric fuel pumps...., not that it is dangerous, but the noise of the pump will resonate throughout the chassis, at least it did with the holley blues, I tried. Isolate them with a little braided....
Do not run aluminum line directly to electric fuel pumps...., not that it is dangerous, but the noise of the pump will resonate throughout the chassis, at least it did with the holley blues, I tried. Isolate them with a little braided....
#4
Member
JUNIOR BUILDER
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 80
Aluminium line will be harder to bend into place with a body on the car, I did a 64 Malibu I had years ago w/ the body off .. wasnt bad at all. Braided line I have heard from many that fumes will seep out.
I changed my car over to braided line and never experienced the fume issue and parked my car with the rear 5' away from a gas water heater ... and my wife can smell a fly fart from 50' away and she never complained. So I dont know how valid that point is. I have probably used SS line from every supplier there is w/o issue.
I've also heard about the alum. line " work hardening " over time and cracking. I ran it on a street / strip car for over 10 years with no issues.
I'm pretty certain the Alum. line will need to be run through a steel sleave in the flywheel / flexplate area to meet NHRA specs. Thats what I did.
An FYI .. If you go the alum. hardline route, buy it from an A/C supply house and you'll pay about 1/2 of what a " speed shop " charges
Just passing along info I have experienced and heard about.
I changed my car over to braided line and never experienced the fume issue and parked my car with the rear 5' away from a gas water heater ... and my wife can smell a fly fart from 50' away and she never complained. So I dont know how valid that point is. I have probably used SS line from every supplier there is w/o issue.
I've also heard about the alum. line " work hardening " over time and cracking. I ran it on a street / strip car for over 10 years with no issues.
I'm pretty certain the Alum. line will need to be run through a steel sleave in the flywheel / flexplate area to meet NHRA specs. Thats what I did.
An FYI .. If you go the alum. hardline route, buy it from an A/C supply house and you'll pay about 1/2 of what a " speed shop " charges
Just passing along info I have experienced and heard about.
#5
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: EastWenatchee,WA
Posts: 887
depending on what you have this is also a option it is nhra legal http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...erm=799-634200
#6
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 658
For the underside of the car, you can get DOT braided lines that they use on tractor trailers. It has a black cloth braiding over the stainless metal braids. Doesn't look pretty, and it uses steel ends instead of aluminum, but it costs about 1/2 the price as the racing hose.
Personally, I wouldn't use aluminum line. Dents, work hardens, and cracks from vibration.
But, to each their own... If it works for ya, use it!
Personally, I wouldn't use aluminum line. Dents, work hardens, and cracks from vibration.
But, to each their own... If it works for ya, use it!