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Thread: purchasing a dragster

  1. #1
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    9

    purchasing a dragster

    Hi All,

    I have lurked around this site for a while now and am considering purchasing a dragster. I have not driven a dragster before but have been part of a top sportsman team so I am familiar with door cars. Can soemone give some advice on what to look for when buying a dragster, or what to stay away from? I do not have the funds for a new dragster and do not plan on running much faster than 8 seconds, so any tips on buying a used dragster is appreciated.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Member JUNIOR BUILDER
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Dexter, New Mexico
    Posts
    69

    dragster

    You are going to get a LOT of different opinions on this one. I personally went to Hawley's school and got my Super Comp license there, then I bought a turnkey slipjoint dragster that was a couple years old, not beat to death, and have really enjoyed racing it. I've won my share of rounds and 4 event wins @ local tracks and have run some NHRA divisionals. I'm selling the car now because I want to have a new one built to my specs. For beginners, I think hardtail/slipjoint cars are an excellent way to gain driving experience SAFELY. Everyone's gonna scream 4-link or swing-arm is a must BUT you don't know what may have happened to a used one in it's life cycle. A friend of mine crashed a 4-link car 'cause the heim joint failed. They need to be inspected/replaced before fatigue can be a factor. Wheelbase must be considered for storage/trailering issues. Not trying to toot my own horn here but for what I consider an excellent starter car see RJ ad 1057771. I am the second owner and have logs on it since new. Another thing to worry about is how the car has been hauled - the highway wears 'em out way more than racing them. You have your pick of several hundred cars out there, good luck and happy new year! 8) JB

  3. #3
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    20
    i have a 06 mullis 4 link ill seel u fro 21500 rolling#1069333

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Coldwater, MI
    Posts
    2,998
    I wouldnt buy nothing but a name brand car that has shocks, if you do and dislike it, it will sell easier. 75% of the time a lot of no name cars dont work as well as a bigger name car.
    Mullis
    Undercover
    Racecraft Danny Nelson
    Racetech
    Miller

    smaller names but good cars
    Diamond
    American
    TNT
    M&M

    Suspended cars do make a big difference they will go down any and all tracks consistently.
    David Lanning
    IHRA NHRA 387B

    Fleenor Racing Transmission
    419-280-1406
    Lanning Electric
    Complete Drag Car Wiring
    APD Race Engines
    www.apdracing.com

  5. #5
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    9

    dragster

    what about Spitzer?

  6. #6
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    20
    ive heard bad about breaking

  7. #7
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NW MO.
    Posts
    13

    dragster

    I have a 2004 spitzer that I race and it has been a great car with no problems. Just my 2 cents.....

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    936
    I have a friends complete Mike Bos car with small block advertised for $15K if you are wanting in the game inexpensively. It is a good working car that needs a new home:
    http://www.racingjunk.com/post/10673...r-or-TK.-.html

    When looking at cars, you want to pull all the panels off. Look for stress cracks in the uprights, drivers compartment or around the motor plates. Look to see if the car has been welded or reworked at all. Unfortunately, you are going to find that a majority of hardtail/slip joint cars will have this. You are less likely to find this on a suspended car. You are also likely to find broken bars on cars not properly transported. Other areas to check are spindles, steering rack and rear end brackets.

    Get in the car. Take a helmet with you. Make sure you are comfortable and fit safely. You should sit back in the cage and your head should not touch the top. You want to make sure you can reach all your controls from the seat.


    Like David said, I second the idea of suspension. Have had both and will not go back to a slip joint car at all. A suspended car has far more advantage on a track then a slip joint. Throw in dual suspension and you have the cat's ass of race cars :wink: . Besides, you don't hear tires chirping from a bouncing 4-link/swingarm car on a marginal track.

    The other piece of advice, find someone to go with you that knows about dragsters. Don't take your group of door car experts. It is an apples to oranges comparison by far. You want someone that has worked on, driven and understands dragsters. Good luck to you.

  9. #9
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Wylie,Texas
    Posts
    276
    .....X3....

  10. #10
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    9

    dragster

    thanks for the advice. I just moved to central Florida from NE Ohio so all my door car friends are there. I am looking forward to hitting some tracks around here to see what things are like and make some new racing friends. I am really close to Orlando Speed World but from the looks of the website there is not alot of bracket racing going on there. I have a 71 chevelle that is street/strip that is just coming out of the paint shop that I cant wait to take to street drag night and burn some of the ricers!

  11. Racing Junk


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