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Thread: Welded Block

  1. #1

    Welded Block

    My dad and i did some mud flow diversion work for our neighbor just to be friendly. Well in return he gave us a set of 6.00 carillo rods, stock bore Wiseco lightweight pistons, Angle milled heads, and a cracked and welded bowtie block. I guess he wanted to clean out his shop. Anyways i think the block cracked because he did not pull both drain plugs, but only one to drain it and it craked over the winter. The block only had one season on it(what a shame). the crack is external and not even as deep as the tip of a pen so he welded it, do yall think it's safe to use in an under 650 hp application or even use at all?

  2. #2
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NC
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    558
    You may want a good machine shop to look it over just for another opinion, if its like you say its prpbably ok. usually if water was left in it it cracks big! but get an opinion of someone standing right their in frt of it looking at it with you.David,

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    La.
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    2,890
    Not to worry,
    I've got a 509 400 blk, filled to the water pump opening and after i put it together and started filling the radiator, we discovered a 4 1/2" long crack about 3/4" below the deck. We decided to run it dry and made 11 passes on alcohol in the dragster.
    We then pulled it out and before transferring it to my Malibu, i tig welded it with nirod using the hammer method (weld 1/4" hammer the weld, cool down and repeat), without even pulling the Alum. heads. I re-torqued the heads and put it in the Malibu, it now has over 100 passes without one flaw.
    And i do get a lot of flap from some excellent engine builders for using stock blks, but this engine ran 5.16 and 8.23 in an 1850lb dragster while running dry.
    Due to the too nasty cam it's down on torque and not enough gear for the heavy car (3253lbs) so it only runs 6.52 and 10.59 @124mph in the Malibu.

    JMO

    Zip.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the advice, the crack is long maybe 4 inches ain't looked at it in a while, but i do remember it being a very shallow crack, just like if you were to make a imprint with a piece of tiewire. I was asking because one engine builder said good and the other said i would'nt trust it or use it. The bigger name builder said use it so i just might since it is a bowtie block and clearenced for what i need already. I just won't use nitrous or blowers i think.

  5. #5
    Thanks zip sounds alot like the crack on my block i suppose i'll use it then, it's already been welded by a shop also(forgot to mention that i think).

  6. #6
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    VA Hospital, Dallas, Tx (214 302 1924) cell-972-464-7400
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    I agree with Zip,

    Ed
    " Let all things that hath breath, praise the Lord. Praise Ye the Lord" Psalms 150 vs 6.

  7. #7
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Rutherfordton North Carolina
    Posts
    192
    Get the block magnafluxed in the valley area,they crack there as well. if it checks ok weld it and go race.Bill
    Hendrens Racing Engines
    1310 U.S. Hwy 221 North
    Rutherfordton N.C. 28139
    828-286-0780 Bill, Steve, Mike
    www.hendrensracingengines.com

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    4,143
    Since we are on the subject...I have a 454 block that I had a roller lifter break in. It is cracked between the lifter bores in the cam tunnel...it didn't hurt the lifter bores just kinda crunched in a spot between the..sorta hard to see but it's there. It didn't leak water but you can see where the metal is pushed in a little .....guy at Schmidt Automotive in Indy looked at it and said he could put epoxy over it and do a partial block fill and it would be ok..but he couldn't gaurentee it would never leak.I was afraid to use it so I got a Merlin block. I hate to throw this one in the junk because it had very few runs on a fresh bore...but at the same time I hate to use it..if that makes sense..lol. Also if it is repairable is there an optionm other than the block fill? One that would allow it to be used on a street application?

  9. #9
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NC
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    558
    if it doesnt leak now,epoxy it ,Ive fixed heads with it, street use should be fine!! David.

  10. #10
    Member MASTER JOURNEYMAN
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    37
    welded blocks are fine...if they use nickel welding rods..have it magged and pressure tested..if it checks..go race it


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