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Thread: Winter Rebuild / Upgrades, A Couple of ????'s

  1. #1
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Winter Rebuild / Upgrades, A Couple of ????'s

    Well I'm going to bite the bullet and empty out the gas and go to methanol.

    This is a Ford 351W, currently +.030, Enderle Bugcatcher in a (roughly) 3000 lb door car.

    I'm looking at the BRC 11cc dome pistons that with my World 64cc iron heads will get me to 13:1 to make the alky happy and these are shelf pistons for BRC so cost isn't too bad. Will be sending out the injection for flow and setup as well, and I am also seriously considering swapping out the distributor for a mag as I don't carry a charging system.

    I am also going to have the machinist at my local speed shop perform the long block assemble. I have decided that I am the weak link in (re)building my own after having to do it twice this summer.

    1st question is on cooling.
    I plan to hard fill the block prior to sending engine in to the shop. With alcohol and a filled block will I need a radiator and a water pump of some sort? I am sure I would not need a full size radiator and am considering something like a motorcycle radiator if I indeed do need one.

    Also plan to dump the factory front cover and aluminum water pump and replace with an Enderle front cover, blocking the fuel pump drive hole as my pump will remain belt driven. I could tap into the water inlets through the Enderle cover if need be, and if I do was considering a small inline pump. Nothing too high tech, maybe like a heavy duty aquarium pump. Car will most likely not run with a hood on it. Could really use some feedback on this.

    2nd question is on cam selection.
    Not looking for a profile but I will listen to suggestions. I am currently running a custom solid flat tappet and Howards lifters with the EDM oil hole. Thought I would stay SFT but have had more than a few suggest that I go to a solid roller.

    I am a 'tard on roller cams, I know nothing except that they cost more. A lot more. My block was not a roller cam block and I understand there are different styles of lifters used to accomplish the change. Is it as simple as using link-bar style lifters? Does this remove the need for any additional machine work?

    I know most of you here are running packages that dwarf mine but any insight you can share would be oh, so appreciated.

    I am in the budget planning stages and just finished tearing the engine down this morning. First time I've done this without finding any damage so my optimisim is high.

    Thanks to you all.

    Murff

  2. #2
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Hmm, lot's of views but no advice.

    If it helps any I have recently become edjumacated on the roller cam question so that portion can be disregarded.

    Could still use a tip or two on the cooling aspect.

    Thanks a pantsload.

    Murff

  3. #3
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Depends on the tune up. I've seen them run plenty hot before the tune got right.

    George
    http://www.gdmii.com/pics/81launchvidcapsig.jpg
    1981 Camaro @ 2594 lbs.
    496 cu. in. on 1150 Rupert alky
    Brodix BB2X heads touched by the magic hands of Curtis Boggs
    [email protected] Best 60' 1.18
    www.motorsportsvillage.com

  4. #4

    Running Meth

    We have ran meth for 5 years in our BBCs. Never filled a block yet. We feel it is not necessary. And yes get a good electric water pump and a smaller radiator. Even though the engine will run cooler, you will find times that you will need the cooling.

    Roller cams cost a little more, but give you more HP from just the reduction in friction. And in the relationship of additional cost to HP, it is cheap HP.

    Now not related to cooling, but, get a good vacuum pump or go to dry sump oiling. You will be glad you did. It will help keep your oil from getting contaminated with excessive alcohol. A bad fuel tune will turn your oil into milk after a couple of runs. Also excessive idling will do it also.

    I see some cars run with out the hood, and I know that it is bracket racing, but running with no hood is like having the chute out.

    And what is that saying?
    Oh yea, just my 2ยข worth.

    gyrogearloose

  5. #5
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    you could run the motor dry with alcohol as long as you are just making 1 pass rounds..if you were going to bracket race the car i would have something there to circulate the water thru the heads if you block it up to the bottom of water pump holes.....

    you can purchase one of those scorrico style radiators ( 13x22 plastic) for cheap....ron owens can get them for you....

    i ran one of these with an in- line water pump from meziere...deadenbear makes a water header for bbc and sbc,,do not know about fords...anyhow this water header bolts to the block like like a water pump but arches up and over the timing chain cover to clear cam driven fuel pump, blower belts etc.....if deadenbear doesn't sell on for fords then get a 3 way #12 an fitting and plumb you one with braided hose etc....you can get creative enough with fitting and braided line to work out your plumbing NO PROBLEM HERE..

    i would definatley circulate some water thru to cool down some hots spots in the heads if anything..

    been there done that , on my SBC Alcohol Injected blower motor with cam driven fuel pump...
    it made over 1,000 hp at 10% over driven with port/polished bow-tie STEEL heads...ran a BDS STAGE 4 competition stripped blower...with enderle bird catcher...it was mean for a steel headed small block i assure you......THIS 1.000 HP WAS FAR FROM KILL...i was only putting 20 lbs of boost in..i could have went to 25 to 28 lbs...but this would be the limit...i feel it would have made 1200/1300 or close to it...



    Brian
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "


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