Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: total seal rings?and what oil rings to use?

  1. #1
    Senior Member SENIOR BUILDER
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    121

    total seal rings?and what oil rings to use?

    I'm gonna put total seal rings in my blown alky SBC and it will be gapless 2nd ring design,just need some help on which oil rings to use,they have standard,11 pound low tension rings and 16 pound low tension rings,remember this is a blown motor that will be making over 25 lbs of boost on the first run and then more after that hopefully, Thanks for the help GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!

  2. #2
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    VA Hospital, Dallas, Tx (214 302 1924) cell-972-464-7400
    Posts
    540
    I strongly suggest to not do it.

    If you are determined to use a Gapless, Use the Top Gapless. I still say don't do it.

    The boost levels you are talking about I would use the Total Seal Conventional AP Stainless top and the Ductile seciong with standard tension oil rings.

    Best thing to do is top call Total Seal and talk only with Keith Jones and tell him what you have and the use and follow his recommendations. If he does recommend the Gapless Go For It.

    I am not a Gapless Hater. I use them a lot. I did quit using the Second Ring Gaoless though.

    Ed
    " Let all things that hath breath, praise the Lord. Praise Ye the Lord" Psalms 150 vs 6.

  3. #3
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Rutherfordton North Carolina
    Posts
    192
    The gapless second goes against the current trend to use .002 more gap in your second ring than the top ring.this prevents gas buildup between the top and second ring that unloads he top ring.thats why every one of our dyno tests have made more power with a conventional properly gapped top ring and larger gap on the second ring than the Total seal gapless second ring. with a properly gapped top ring on the dyno the engines show the same amount of ring leakage on the blow by meter as the gapless ones.when the engine and ring package is up to temp there should be very little gap.Bill
    Hendrens Racing Engines
    1310 U.S. Hwy 221 North
    Rutherfordton N.C. 28139
    828-286-0780 Bill, Steve, Mike
    www.hendrensracingengines.com

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    La.
    Posts
    2,890
    Very good advice from both Ed and Bill, total seals are not the best way to go with a blown engine.
    If you call total seal they wil try to sell you their nitrous total seal set at about $260.00, but you are much better off with their stainless top ring file fit set, or a good plasma molly set.
    There's also a big myth that more boost makes more power, that's just not the case. IE: example, you can take a 350" motor making 350HP and put 10lbs of boost into it driving the blower at (1 to 1) and you will gain roughly 150hp. You can then take the same motor and put a good set of free flowing heads and a higher lift longer duration cam in it, with a lot of attention being paid to the exhaust flow, and incorperate a good set of zoomies 2 1/8" or 2 1/4", again driving the blower (1 to 1) the boost will drop to 6 to 8 lbs. but the engine will then produce about 600hp with a lot less wear and tear on the rotating assembly.
    I also have/had a blown 358" alcohol engine until i melted down a piston and cracked the block. I melted it down because i wasn't running down nozzles and it could not be properly tuned without them. I've been running blowers for over 40 yrs and knew better. I run a Littlefield 1471 and a Buzzard Catcher. I know it's over kill but i can put 30lbs in the engine and not even turn it 1 to 1, that keeps the heat down which makes more power. In fact the motor went 4.62 in a 2600lb door car, before it melted down. It's going back together as a 383" (with down nozzles and going into an 1800lb Anglia when the Anglia is finished. All i have to do then look under my FAT belly and see if i have the Gonads to drive it.
    I've know Mert Littlefied and Ralph Gore for over 20 yrs. and when i talked to him about restripping the blower and told him of the melt down he laughed and called me a dummy, because he knew i knew better than to not run down nozzles.

    Just my .02

    Zip.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    558
    ZIP, EXPLAIN THESE DOWN NOZZLES! IVE NOT MESSED WITH ALCOHOL, BLOWERS A LITTLE W/ GAS! THANKS,DAVID.

  6. #6
    Senior Member SENIOR BUILDER
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    121
    just a extra set of nozzles plumed into the itake ports,kinda like a nos fogger nozzle,it puts fuel directly into the intake ports ,helps on not leaning out cylinders,and the tuning is alot better.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    La.
    Posts
    2,890
    Quote Originally Posted by Racefab57
    ZIP, EXPLAIN THESE DOWN NOZZLES! IVE NOT MESSED WITH ALCOHOL, BLOWERS A LITTLE W/ GAS! THANKS,DAVID.
    As (knova70) says it's an extra set of nozzles plumbed into the intake manifold, and you can then put different size pills or jets into each nozzle in order to keep the fuel equal in each cylinder. In most cases running thru the blower only with the fuel it's not equally distributed and it comes thru hotter than with direct port nozzles.
    The tuneup comes by using EGT readers on each exhaust tube to keep the temperature the same in each cylinder, generally around 1100 degrees with alcohol.

    Zip.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Copyright © 2005-2016 RacingJunk.com All Rights Reserved.

Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the RacingJunk.com
Terms of Use, Classifieds Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, and Cookie Policy