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Thread: scaling race car cost

  1. #1
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    scaling race car cost

    ive been racing my truck for a few years and never had it scaled .i would like to have it done but dont know the cost . i called a couple of places one said 700.00 the other said 100.00 they would help with adjustments after itook it to track. what is every one else paying ? jsut tring to be informed. thanks matt

  2. #2
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    well i guess no one has ever scaled there race car !!! lol

  3. #3
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
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    one of these days im going to get me a set of scales and charge $700 bucks to tell guys what their car weighs on each corner.... :shock: :lol:
    each car is different on what the ideal corner weights are, but the whole idea is to give you a starting point to tune your chassis. You can also get the cars center of gravity from this.
    Stock car guys have been doing this for years, and the big boys in drag racing have been doing it more and more.
    $700 bucks seems high to just scale the car, and $100 bucks seems very cheap.
    If you just want to see what the car weights then $100 is ok.
    Why do you want to scale the car, are you having problems with it?

    as an edit here, I see summit has 2 sets of scales, about $1050 and $1400. Get that $700 guy to scale twice and you could have bought your own set.
    Ed

  4. #4
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    its a 125inch wheel base truck, 700hp eng, it just doesnt leave right . it goes straight every time ,doesnt seem like it tries to pick up the front end at all. ive had the 4link in every hole thats there and it dont seem to change alot. had converter rebiult, trans, 60fts are 1.38to 1.40 runs 977 at 140 in 1/4 . maybe just need bigger engine . lol thanks matt

  5. #5
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    I bought my scales from RJ RACECARS they use to sell them for $480 , there a mechanical type of scales , they work fine! $100 is ok for just corner weights , $700 is HIGH for that , whats the frtend setup in the truck? (shocks, springs ) could deffently be cause !!!

  6. #6
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    struts, full tube chassis with 4link ,strange struts

  7. #7
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
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    I was quoted $250 from a Chassis shop plus if we had to add weight I would have to pay for that also.

  8. #8
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    I have scaled all of my CARS...digital scales..you would be amazed at how much a 1/4 flat turn on the top pre-load bar will have you very heavy on the right rear...i would say if you could have somone with a digital set of scales that KNOWS what they are doing to scale the car out WITH YOU IN THE CAR...there is a difference of opinion with front to rear weight percentage.. 49/51 % is where my camaro scales out....your car will fall into its own percentage with how is built,,placement of motor etc..but this can be manipulated by adding lead pucks to whereever you choose to place..normally in the 2nd half of car.

    you also want the car to weigh somewhere in the ball park of 10-15lbs heavy on the left rear when you scale it..WITH YOU IN THE CAR..

    I AM NOT A CHASSIS BUILDER ETC..but i have been there with my chassis guy when the car was scaled and set up.....i had to be cause they have to weight the car with you in the drivers seat or at least place some weight in the seat that is close to what you weigh..but even that will not be distributed in the right places..

    i do not think you would want much of a wheel stand would you ??..unless its for show.....but if you want a wheel stand or work it going toward that way i am confident the area's below will work you that way in a hurry

    1- front to rear weight..heavier in the rear...example: 47/53 %....adding weight in the rear will get you there and it will not take much to tip the % scales that way.in other words it doesn't take 200lbs to move a few percent..think of it as a wheel barrow on a fulcrum..it doesn't take much force to tip the wheel barrow on over once it gets that way..maybe this was a poor anaolgy buy i think you get the point.40 lbs in the right spot will make a huge difference to your percentage if your close..it did in mine...

    2- proper wheels weights....with coil overs you can make a wheel heavy or light...we have my left wheel pushing down ( heavy)

    3- instant center.....different on every car cause 4 links are made different. this is the intersection point of your bottom bars and your top bars...this will determine greatly if your wheels are coming up or not.....( please print and read 4 link basics posted at the begining of the chassis section) ..much good info there in my opinion..it will go into thi more in depth..


    i will assure you ..that if you manipulate these 3 areas to lean toward pulling the wheels..you will get it..unfortunatley the people i have been around that has done these wheels stands are caught off guard when it happens and its causes a MAJOR wheel stand and destroys a lot of stuff..

    thats what a person gets when they blindly go turning a pre-load bar and starting moving the instant center without knowing where they stand to begin with...

    so with all that said..i think it would be a wise investment for you to have the car scaled but only with qualfied chassis person that can help you with squaring the car properly,setting pinion angle,wheel weights and instant center point..

    i hope this helps you decide on which way to go..

    thanks brian
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  9. #9
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Invest in some wheelie bars are you may do something you where not planning on like Brian said. Wesley

  10. #10
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    were do you live truk i have scales and if you do all the work you can scale for free. i'm not a chassie guy and suck when it comes to figuring out the chassie but i have scales. bjuice is right you don't what to pull a big wheelie it has cost me thuosands of dollors over the yrs doing stupid shit like that. about a foot no more and that will sit on the rear tires hard.


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