bjuice

ok i will assume you are gonna run a decent shot of say 200/250..here is what i would build for myself and have seen built as TRUE 100% NOS motor

1- good bottom end. 4340 crank, aluminum rods is best,"cushion"
the impact of the NOS hit therefore more forgiving on bearings.
forged pistons..make sure the ring gaps are set up for a spray motor, ed with edvance engines or TOM 'head Mod" can get more into detail with this.

2- you must get the proper cam profile, that will have a longer duration..the principle is the same as a blower motor camshaft..the more you pack in a motor the quicker is has to get out.. the exhaust valves have to stay open longer in order to get the exhaust out So the lobe seperation will be greater....they make cams just for NOS...BE ADVISED THIS CAM WILL BE A SLUGGISH DOG UNTIL YOU PULL THE TRIGGER ON IT (NOS)

3- you CAN use domed pistons..normally NOS motor is not the extra high compression motors but you can have your engine guy work your chambers of your heads to accomodate whatever needs you have here for the CR

4- you will need to run a much COOLER plug..normally 3 steps cooler than your normal heat range plug,..and be sure to close up the gap..say 25 thousandths or so,,give or take.

5- make sure you have VERY ADEQUATE fuel system..a prostar 500 magnafuel is a good source to operate THE NOS AND MOTOR TOGETHER..DO NOT,I SAY DO NOT..try to run the motor and nos system together on one lower production fuel pump such as a holley blue etc...if you use a holley blue or black or something equal to this then..you must run a dedicated fuel system to feed the nos side and one to the motor side..the reason is if your fuel pump cannot keep up with the demands of the nos and motor it will lean out your motor and burn it up....so keep a healthy fuel supply to the nos and motor..

6- be sure to TAKE OUT the proper timing from your final timing once nos is activated,,NOS recommends 2 degrees of timing per 50hp of NOS...so a 200 shot would need a minimal amout of 8 degrees of total timing retarded,
Nos is to be activated at WOT only ..so you can buy the throttle activated switch to when you go WOT the nos will activate. you can also buy the adjustable box that will tie in with the throttle micro- switch so that when you activate the NOS at WOT you also retard your timing,,you can buy extra chips to take out however much timing you need to...you can buy you a HOBB switch to up your insurance on fuel saftey for the NOS..all it is is a fuel saftey switch that you wire in line with your NOS fuel side..the switch has a internally 4 lbs presett to where it will cut off your NOS if the fuel pressure drops below 4 lbsi

7- you will need the proper TQ converter for NOS..normally its a tighter converter... Loose HP converter is no good with NOS,,,You will drive right thru it...

8- you will also need to make the proper gear changes in your rear end...it will take a higher gear with NOS over what a raw HP MOTOR would take to run.




This is the high points,,,there is plenty of more info..but as you can see already there is much to running a TRUE 100% NOS motor,,,you will also be very dissatisfied with how a TRUE NOS motor runs on Motor only...its sluggish, heavy feeling, will NOT TURN UP for nothing...BUT WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER OR THOSE TRIGGERS...IT'S LIKE A BEAST COMING TO LIFE...
here is an example of my friends all out 100% NOS MOTOR PASS WITH AND WITHOUT THE NOS....SEE HOW IT COMES ALIVE


1/8 Mile et on motor only- 7.16 at 102 mph.
1/8 mile et on 300 shot 'progressive"- 5.60 at 135 mph...


so that is my take on it...


thanks brian