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Old 03-14-2009, 04:38 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 504
Default Re: Thinking of building a 25.1E chassis

Originally Posted by mike572
I'm looking for some opinions and experiences of chassis builders. I want to build a 25.1E legal double frame rail chome moly chassis.

So I have a couple questions maybe some of you pros would be kind enough to help me out with. Who makes the best/easiest unwelded kits? Does a Chrome Moly chassis have to be stress relived? How hard is is to run struts on a seldomly driven street car? Would you talk me into building it or out if it? Any tips?

Thanks ahead of time,
Well to help you with a few, Chrome moly can not be stress relieved by rule any longer due to the likely damage to the tubing that was being done previously. NHRA no longer recommends stress relieving of moly and is not required for chassis applications.
Struts are great on the street and every where but the street is hard on racing valved shocks and they over heat and get air in them quickly on street duty. A 25 1E chassis has welded floor boards on both sides now and It might just be me, but I do not believe that you will be effortlessly successful titling this chassis car legally for the street but that is besides the point.
Kits probably are helpful if you do not have a bender and have no plan to work with but I build cars for myself complete for less than $3000 for all tubing and interior tin work welded and complete race ready PLUS labor which is me thank god. The labor is the whole cost to building a car. If you are hell bent on a 25.1e chassis remember that NHRA changes and updates the chassis requirements often which if not used as a 25 1E during it's first 3 years may be a waste of money and tubing for you. It would take a lot of wind at your back to go faster than 7.49 ET.
25.4 chassis is much less pipe and is legal to 7.50 ET. The floor has to be welded on the drivers side only and is more condusive to updating this way. As a welder you have to treat this moly like you are welding on 18 ga steel. Only go 1/4 at a time and don't try to do the whole weld at one heat cycle. Avoid over heating and pulling the pipe, make all your joints tight and one pass only with .060 crown 8 filler wire or 80 stensel strength.
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