Originally Posted by zipper06
So Jim my question is, when you use a zinc adative what oil do you suggest a person use. Are you talking about using a none detergent oil when using a zinc adative. The reason i'm intrested is i had my cam go flat in my Elky, it was in the engine for over 6 yrs. I changed the oil and in a couple weeks it went flat. I've now changed the cam and bought Lucas zinc adative, but i used a 10X40 oil with the supplement zinc. Did i waste the $12.00 on the zinc or should i change to a none detergent oil with another pint of zinc. I've only ran the engine about 1 hr since putting it back together and i don't want this cam to go flat like the last one.
As far as cams going flat i've got a friend who run a sprint car and he has has atleast a 1/2 doz. cams go flat (rules dicate a flat tattet cam)and as you said some on the test stand. The cam manufauturers just say o'well.
Zip.
Well Zip, I use the additive ONLY for break-in... added to an already good racing oil such as Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple or Valvoline VR1, IF I do not have one of their break-in oils handy (the nearest race shop is 70 miles away). After a thorough break-in, I drain the break-in formula out and change filter, and use only one of the excellent racing oils listed above straight up.
After trying all the above, I find the VR1 is the most cost effective and easiest to find at most auto parts stores.
Logically, if you put any additive in a shelf oil that was designed to take the zinc and phosphorus out, you will be wasting you money because the elements will be isolated and filtered out of the system.
On small engines with no filters, I only use one of the racing oils with the ZPPD in it, because I am still not quite so sure on the Honda or Briggs & Stratton blends or other small engine formulas... because they don;t tell you what exactly is in in it...?
Ok, I will now jump to the cam hardness issue...
Jim