What shape are the decks in? Mine leaked a bit of water, and it was due to the decks overall condition. Here's what I'd do. Have a machine shop that's got the proper capability to o-ring blocks pull the wire out, clean up the decks, and recut the grooves. Install new wire and keep running the copper gaskets. Make sure your heads are cut to match with receiver grooves, the gasket that's being pushed up by the o-rings needs a place to go, and can keep the head from sitting flat. Spray the gaskets with a couple of good coats of copper coat, and let it dry between coats. Make sure the heads and deck are clean and dry, and your head studs are sealed with either silicone, or another non hardening sealer, NOT TEFLON TAPE OR PASTE. Teflon will wash out. You can use loctite, but good luck getting the studs out again if you need too...Then just assemble them like normal, bring it up to full operating temp, let it cool down, and retorque. One big thing that not many think of here is make sure that the torque wrench you're using is accurate!!! The higher the torque the more the error, and if your wrench hasn't been calibrated in a while, or is a cheaper model, you may not be getting the PROPER torque on your studs, and that means less clamping force, less compression, and less sealing! Lastly, you can use a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of hylomar or other AUTOMOTIVE GRADE silicone around the coolant passages instead of the copper coat, but it has to be very thin or it could possibly either block the smaller holes or keep the gasket from sitting down all the way...Had it happen to me before, no fun to fix at the track.....