bjuice

the break in procedure does many things ..seating the rings is one of them.
i have personally whitnessed brand new motors being dyno tested for the 1st time thru clements racing in Spartanburg S.C. and here is what i saw with my own eye's.

started up motor brought up to temp oil and water...shut it down. took valave covers off and DID a visual of rockers and valve springs...

2nd pull- started motor and turned the motor up to 5500 rpm and and let it run motor for abut 2 minutes. (seemed like 2 hrs) it wasn't my motor and i was a nervous wreck..but the guys operating the dyno was cool as a cucumber..they do this a-lot..

3rd pull --adjusted valves and found the max hp (approx 7200 rpm) on the motor and shut it off..

4th pull played with timing and carb jetting and pulled the pants off the motor again...fine tuning for HP....I think a total of 9 dyno pulls were performed..but this was fine tunning for max hp..jetting ,timimng,valve adjustments...etc...



i have started up several new motors on my own..and here is the policy i always follow..

be sure to prime the motor before starting..make sure you prime just before trying to start..DO NOT prime several days before and let it sit..i made a homemade primer out of an old distributer housing..place a electric drill or a manual speed handle and turn it until you get oil pressure showing on your gage and hold it there for a few minutes..you should feel the TUG agains't the oil pump as it draws up your oil..

if you have a roller cam you should be fine..but i FEEL ( PERSONAL OPINION) on flatt tappet cams etc with stronger valve springs, to take out the inner valve spring to where there is not much tension on the lifter/cam and after its run at a very,very low rpm..put the inner springs back In...this procedure has been used in the past..improper priming combined with heavy valave spring tension has been the cause of spinning a cam bearing. if this happnes your in trouble...i have seen this happen in person...

if it were my motor in my shop i would start it as i mentioned above ..let it idle..always have someone looking direclty at your oil gage..NEVER LOOK WAY..if the pressure drops one bit..kill it...

let the motor idle. check for leaks etc...get the water temp./oil temp up to normal operating temp..then shut it off..take off valve covers and do visual of your rocker arms/valve springs to see if anything is loose or out of place...re-crank and re-peat procedure...then start working up your RPMS......always go back and re-adjust your valves after all of this has been done and the engine is still warm....

i might have shared too much info but wanted to make sure i covered most of what i knew here..this is a very VITAL part of someones engine process.


thanks and hope this helps....