View Single Post
Old 01-07-2012, 12:23 PM
  #20  
roadkill2
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 628
Default

"Apples and Oranges" . . Definitely!

Tire Shake, basically, is caused by not enough tire speed to keep the sidewall wrinkled and the sectional profile in a rectangle . . The cure is as varied as the vehicles susceptible to it . .

A FED really shouldn't be exhibiting a lot of it because of the inherent design and weight bias . . But it does happen . . Perhaps not enough negative pitch on the crank centerline . . More common on rear motored cars, blown altereds and blown door cars built to run in the 7 second and faster range . .

I'll go with the Tighter Converter suggestion. Awhile back I was the crew chief for a Blown Alky Altered and we stalled at 5000+ on the starting line . . 500" B Chrysler, 8-71, Hoosiers, 7 second car . . never had a tire shake problem.

On the Blower deal . . "3000 RPM and you're done" . . not really. Depends on your Blower and the pulleys you use . . If that were the concrete case, you wouldn't need to overdrive a Blower like we all do on a competition Engine . . and I underdrive the little 144 on my Street Rod so that in high gear I'm not running against compression, yet when I stand on it it starts working at 2650 engine RPM . . Noticeably!
roadkill2 is offline