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Old 05-31-2007, 06:35 AM
  #7  
sp2816
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MASTER BUILDER
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Owingsville, Ky
Posts: 157
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If the car is spinning, then the ballast in the trunk would help the ET. But in your case, when the car left the line, I saw at least 3 wrinkles in the slick and the car accelerated straight forward and didn't "fish tail" any. So, IMO the ballast might help pull the front wheels, but would not help on the et.
The spring rate on the front end could be too stiff. When I built my car it was recommended for me to install the 400lb/in front springs on my struts, because of the weight. It wouldn't pull the wheels, but the car would work OK. I then changed the springs to 350lb/in and 1" longer to help hold the front up, and then the car was able to pull the wheels a few inches and run a little quicker.
It is like mcracecars stated that your car needs more gear. If you are trying to get a car to run ET and not MPH in the quarter, you need to get it to accelerate as quickly as possible down low. I run a 4.56 gear in my car with the 16x33 slicks and my car has always been a little softer on the bottom end with the powerglide 1.76 and turns a little more MPH on the top. Moving the shift point up would probably help, also. I would think that you are losing some usable HP by shifting so low. Where does your engine make peak power? If not known, what size is your cam as that would give an idea?
Your 60ft ET is not that far off from what is predicted for your 9.15 quarter mile ET as it shows that it might be a 1.27. This is the link to some good calculators http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

At the speeds and times that you are wanting to achieve, I would add the bars to the rear that would allow installing the chute. I have had rear brake lines break before. You might be able to come off from the main hoop and add some larger bars that are tied to the inside of your existing framework to make a tether point.

Good luck on the 8's,
Bill M
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