Originally Posted by johnracer
Thanks for the responses. I definately not trying to put on a show though. Running in Supergas on a 4-tenths pro tree, I have no time in the delay box and can't get anywhere close to red. The car works great running flat out on a full tree where I can have delay in the box. If that's all I wanted to do, I'd leave it alone for sure.
Dparker, I've considered trying a stiffer tire, like maybe a D6. However, I have to run around 4.5-5psi to get it to hook consistently now and figure a D6 would make it worse. That brings me to what Topspeed said.
I run the struts at full soft when running flat out, and tightening them up makes it spin, so traction is obviously an issue.
You're right about the crank height. It's at about 11 1/4" at the current ride height. Do you thing raising the front ride height would help? That would also reduce front travel and may cause spin with the current 4-link setting. You definately got me thinking here......perhaps moving the IC back & up a little would plant the tire hard enough to allow me to run more tire pressure and a stiifer front strut setting without spinning. Might even be able to run a stiffer sidewall........what do you think?
I have 90lb rear springs and 250lb fronts. It had 200 fronts but I changed them to try to help reaction times. It may have made it worse.
Thanks again,
Johnny
The change to higher rate front springs will make it harder to pitch rotate just like stiffening the rebound on the front struts. D6 has nothing to do with sidewall. That is a compound rating by good year. D1 is the softest compound that is available to us sportsman racers and is available in stiff sidewall construction and non stiff or high growth. This is the only tire compound I would run on a light car like yours personally. The crank height should not be raised by the spring pre load. This will top the struts out earlier and not give good results as you speculated. One way one can do this is by using larger diameter tires without re engineering the front end geometry . This will leave the crank higher in the front as if you mounted the engine higher in the chassis and give better pitch rotation that you are after. I don't know who's brake you are using, (not a big fan of 2 speeds) but some are much faster than others. They are often called pro brakes and on 3 speed trans and requires the use of the trans brake sol. to back up with the shifter in the neutral position on my 3 speed hydro job's . One more item I left out due to the amount of work involved is if you like the IC choice you have, you can maintain it and put the bars on the differential and front chassis bracket closer together (Less Spread) this will give faster housing reaction but can hurt down track traction if you were close to the edge now, but with the power you have currently, it is not likely. You just calculate the IC to the same position as previous but with less spread on both ends. I would lower the top bar down on both ends the same distance from point of beginning. Do not make the rear spread less than 10" for your power level. You probably have over 11.5" spread currently for a big torque combination.
One more thought, do you have and anti roll bar in the rear of this car. This will help directing the vehicle forward quicker as well. just a few more thoughts to ponder.