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Old 12-05-2009, 01:10 PM
  #40  
zipper06
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
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Originally Posted by DRTRCR22
No foul Zip, I didn't take it like that... I really appreciate the discussion and helping info. That's what we are on here for, right?

I just got back from Mike Elmore's shop (Elmore Race Engines @ Carlsbad NM CarQuest) where we did the final run-in with the new valve springs. Man it sounds sweeeeeet!

We discussed the oil topic, and he says he likes Brad Penn green racing oil because it does not foam up in the alky engines.

BUT, he said, that can be VERY decieving as the alky still dilutes the oil down, and not having the foaming indicators can lead one to mistakenly believe it is in much better condition than it really is.

Mike broke in my 404 in with Joe Gibbs Break-In oil, and he wants me to use Joe Gibbs XP4, and change it every week.

With the Wix filter this will come out to about $50 a weekend, but after spending $13K on this bad boy I am not going to argue...

He also highly reccomended putting the 7200 chip in the box, and gearing it for bottom end torque pulling around 7k.

I already put my 6.00 gear back in the floater, which should be just right for local 1/4 mile clay tracks with this much bottom ends now...

Jim
Just curious, did the engine builder say if you had to put a zinc additave with the Joe Gibbs oil, since you said you're running flat tappets, or doe it have enough zinc already?

Zip.
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