Depending on the temperatures Acrylic enamel will still be releasing solvents for over a month. Untill they have excaped you will have less than satisfactory results in sanding and buffing. The down side of waiting for a couple months is, it gets harder than superman's knee cap. I would wait and spend the extra effort or you will see that shinny buff job die back.
All sanding should be done with a block. NO FINGER SANDING. The runs, you can use a very small chunk of wood or even part of a paint stir for your block. you will be using a courser grit 400 600 to level run. using the little block a lot of soapy water, sand only the high spot by turning the block to a 45* angle and sand lightly. If you use rubber block you will sand material around paint and go threw. When it is just about level switch to finer paper. Keep paper clean with lots of water. If it gums up you will have big scratches. Depending if you have any orange peel, will decide if you sand the whole car. Don't try to do anything but level the dirt spots. You don't want very shiny spots here and there. 1500 should work for you then buff with a good compound. 3M has a great 3 step system. Keep buffer as flat as possible. If you tip it up it may look like it works faster but you will learn what buffer burn is.
I would suggest 1/4 inch tape on all edges for buffing and sanding. When buffing make wheel travel off the edge not come on it on final buff.
Main things Block and buffer flat as possible, keep it clean even to washing in between and don't press hard, let sand paper and rubbing compound do the work. Hope this helps.