olds48

I have painted a few cars,no show cars,just drivers.Star off sanding with 180 grit on a DA(dual-action)sander.They can use alot of air,so you will need a pretty decent compressor to keep up.Don't lock the DA into grind mode,let it flop around and vibrate.Not alot of pressure,let the sand paper do the work.You don't have to cut your car down to bare metal if the paint on it is holding good.But it is good to work door jambs and high ridges down to bare metal to help prevent them building up too high.Keep it moving so you won't make high and low spots.Once everything is sanded down with the 180 you can start doing your body work(dents,holes...)Big holes,more than the diameter of a dime,need to be welded up.Smaller holes,I always just dent them in slightly,to make them lower than the surface you want,then fill them with plastic filler.You can weld them up and grind them flat,but it is extra work IMO,and filler holds up fine when used properly.Bondo is okay :roll: but I prefer Chromalite filler.It sets up a little quicker,sands easier and doesn't clog up your paper as bad as some others I've used.Work your dents down with an air file in a criss-cross pattern.Easier to blend them in than just going up and down.Use 80 grit to get the filler close,then switch over to 180 to get them ALMOST done.Do your finish work with a hand block and 300 grit.Hand blocks are good for flat panels and areas with very little curvature.Might need to improvise on what to use.I have used all sorts of things to get into different curves,paint roller heads,heater hose,AN hose,socket extensions,whatever fits your contours you are working with,just make sure they are rigid and will hold their shape.Using sand paper in your empty hand can leave weird dips from where your fingers are applying uneven pressure.One your body work is done go over the whole car by hand,no air tools,with 300 grit.Now your are ready for primer.Shoot a coat just heavy enough to cover the car,don't try to build it up.After it sets up,go over the car with a hand block again,in a criss-cross pattern.You will probably find some high and low spots.Some of them you can just keep block sanding until they flatten.others you will have to fill and cut down.Keep working the car with a block and spraying light coats of primer until you are happy with how flat the car is.DO NOT use spray can primer.It is real gummy to sand(even if it says "sandable")and will make you have to work extra hard.Once you think it is done shoot a good coat of primer on the whole works.Cover all your work(filler will tend to soak it up)but don't try to lay it on real thick,just enough to cover.Now your ready for paint!Sand the primer one last time before painting.What grit to use now will depend on what kind of paint you decide to use.The guys at the paint shop can help with all that.I have always used urethane enamel paint.It's not fancy(pearls or candies)but it easy to use for a beginner.If you use enamel read the instructions on the can,it will tell you what reducer(thinner) to use at what temps,how much,and whatever else is used for the particular paint.If you use enamel you can double the amount of hardner(catalyst) it calls for and use a slower drying reducer to make the paint extra shiny and resistant to scratches.Make sure you wipe the car down with a good solvent(Prepsol is my favorite)to clean off any grease or wax BEFORE you start sanding in the first place.Don't want to embed it into your paint.Also use it before laying any filler,between every layer of primer,and before you paint.If you have small rock chips to repair that the sanding might have hovered over,you don't have to sand all the way down to flatten them,or use plastic filler,either.Get some"spot glazing putty".It is real easy to sand,goes on without mixing and will make yor life real easy.Also good for filling any air bubble holes that might show up in your filler ops: Don't use it on dents,just small chips and gouges,nothing much bigger than an 1/8".As far as guns go.Like I said,I don't have show cars,but all mine turned out fine with a gun from Walmart ops: Good luck and be patient.Just because one spot is taking forever doesn't mean you are doing something wrong.I stretched my fender openings and spent 10+ hours per fender before they were ready to paint.Hope all this didn't bore you too much,just giving all the info I have.Good luck,be patient and let us see how it turns out!WHEW!I'm gonna go lay down now.......