injection plumbing
 

Hi guy's we have an enderle setup on a straight six, having trouble leaning it out, can change pill sizes 92-110 and not much happens. was wondering if pill holder is in right position or if barrel valve needs a blank in it. found a bit of info in some books, going try pill before b/v and then a blank in the b/v but the books had different square type b/v's.

Any ideas and info would be great.

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http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6363/racecar2rg9.jpg

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Whew!!, not totally understanding what i'm seeing in the pics. normally there are no pill bodies comming off the barrel valve except the idle bypass. I'm not familiar with the vavle body that you are running or just maybe the way it's plumbed.
Below i printed out the normal b/p for plumbing the stacks injection, in most cases the secondary bypass is not necessary.
Hope this helps even though it's a hilborn blue print we plumb the enderles,crowers,kinslers, and ron's the same way.

PS, CLEARIFICATION, on 1 point, the secondary/idle bypass is not necessary to run and a lot of people donot run them. However there's benifits to be had with them, they cut down on milking, make the car easier to start 2 time around, and allows the pump to not be turned off on top end after a full pass without flooding the engine with fuel

Zip.

http://img26.picoodle.com/img/img26/...cm_a04e6d0.jpg

It looks like you're using a three way shut off to control fuel flow to a distribution block. Or, I've never seen a barrell valve like that before.

Zip so if i put the pill can before the 3-way i can cap the secondary outlet and leave the idle bypass inplace. My thinking this will meter fuel before rather than after the barrel valve. Was originally told to put pill can on secondary side without a blank under the hex and all lines return to tank and i have new high speed on order.

DONOT plumb the bypass before the 3way, it will take away the flow to the barrel valve, which is necessary to get fuel atomization at the nozzles

It's better if you mount the shutoff on the pump and tee the bypass off the shutoff, but since you already have your engine plumbed, see if you can't tee it off the shutoff where it's mounted. Plumb the fuel directly into the barrel valve with no restrictions, the bypass can also be tee'd off a fuel inlet line after the 3 way shutoff, but before the barrel valve. The idle bypass should have a poppet and a spring set with between 15 and 20lbs, no pills, and should only open in an idling position, the barrel valve should shut it down at 15/20% throttle.
When you get the hispeed bypass, we usually start those out at about 65lbs leakdown and work up or down depending on the egt reading. Again some people donot run these either. I have an adustable Kinsler which makes it easy.

Hope this helps, it confusing too me, but i know it's right

Zip.

First off, thats not an enderle setup, that is a Kinsler system. They have a funky way of running the plumbing .The pill holder ( what kinsler calls it) seems to be in the right spot. Make sure the pill is in correctly. I think the chamfered portion of the jet faces the barrel valve with the spring on the back side of it. If it were me I would call kinsler about this and ask them. Like I said they have a funny way of plumbing there systems which can cause you to go crazy.