moly or mild steel?
 

I want a faster car, looking at moving up from a backhalf camaro to a full chassis car. I know to get a 25.1e cert it must be c-moly, not ready to go that fast yet and there are a number of 8.50 and 7.50 mild steel cars for sale. Would appreciate any input anyone has c-moly vs. mild steel.

You said it yourself, not ready to go that fast, Moly cost 1/3 more in material and must be welded with TIG, VS MS Mig welded extra cost a bunch.

zip.

Moly usually has a better resale value though.

Curtis

shopping for chassis
 

Be careful there is some real junk out there forsale.I spent a year and a half looking at numerious cars and ended up buying a moly rolling chassis from a well known reputable builder.I like you did not need a double framerail moly car because Idon't intend to go that fast right now because of the exspence.However you never know what the future is going to bring and its going to be nice knowing I can throw anything at it and the car will be able to handle it.The car is so square its incredible,the welds look like rolls of new dimes.
Now to get back to you, make sure the car you are looking at is on a level surface.Take a tape measure with you and measure the chassis from front to back and side to side.Pay close attention to shock adjustments there should not be a great difference in them.Also 4 link adjustment should not have a great difference from one side to the other.Don't forget no powder coat.I seen one car that had the welds bondoed.Being confident in your car is worth its weight in gold.

imo if you are go to spend the money on a tube car i would go ahead & buy a moly car and be done. good luck

I like mild steel because if I need to add something I can MIG weld it on, I can't do that with a moly. I don't own a TIG so I"d have to haul it to someone, it's a convenience to me.

THAT IS NOT TRUE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TIG MOLY YOU CAN MIG IT. IF YOU DON'T BELIEVE ME JUST ASK SOMEONE IN THE WELDING INDUSTRY. IF THEY ARE EXPERIENCED THEY WILL TELL YOU SO

The problem rests as most have said, resale value. All things being equal I would prefer a GOOD mild steel car. In an accident it tends to bend a little more before breaking. Easier to LEGALLY weld on as well. A chassis welder for a well known company years ago told me they used a steel rod when welding moly, making the joints less apt to be brittle. You can mig one, just not legal.

You can mig weld CM ,but it must be stressed relieved afterward...not sure what the NHRA says about that though.

NHRA is very clear about welding cm. The rulebook states that cm must be tig welded....