383 sbc
 

Thank in advance guys! I have a factory 4 bolt block I am using to build my 383with. I bought the motor complete years ago , it had blown up (broke a rod went thru pan) the crank was trash but the block didn't have any obvious damage so i put it up to use later. Now some 15 years later I'm using it for my 383 since I need a crank anyway. the machine shop that has the block says that my #2 main cap is screwed and that the original doesn't fit the register. I have got a couple other caps and he says that they won't work either. He said that I could line bore it but that it would probably cost quite a bit He says that if I can find a cap that fits the register we can line hone it. What should I do?bite the bullet and line bore or try another block suggestions please. Budget is tight.

Re: 383 sbc
 

On the blocks we prepare we sonic test, clean and mag, line hone with a new ARP bolt kit, deck, stroker clearance the bottom of the cylinders, lite hone the lifter bores, bore and TORQUE PLATE HONE with the same type gasket and hardware to be used during during the final assembly. And to do this work we get 595.00

If cam bearings and freeze plugs need to be installed we charge 45.00 and the PERFORMACE CAM bearings are 24.00

If the budget is tight find a cap that fits the register and line hone. I have had it done and had no problems. Engine builder should have a bunch of caps laying around,

His statement to you sounds like garbage to me. IT is very unlikely that several different caps would all be over heated enough to shrink so they can't be made to fit the register. They get hot when a bearing spins or is trashed from a lack of lubrication and then they pull inward away from the register. Shops use used caps all the time to replace bad ones. If he can't I suggest to find a different shop.

Many times a blcok and caop can be saved by several different process. Some cps can be pressed in the center carefull on a press and opened up slightly and them the sides ground or milled to give a .005 interference fit on the register. If the cap has not pulled away fom the register much you can also ping the pan rails with a little chisel or center punch and bring the rails in slightly to get the register/cp interference fit. This is done in even sone of the biggest shops so it is not a home brew fix.

I will say that no matter which way you make a cap to work it will still need to be align honed. If you buy new caps it will need to be align bored.

Ed

thanks guys, having never this kind of problem before I didn't know exactly what direction to go . This NC country boy believes he is getting his corn shucked. I think I'll pay him what I owe him and find another shop to help me, shouldn't be hard to find a machine shop that will fix the problem instead of offering excuses. there are alot of good machine shops around my area (NASCAR) .

thanks for the quick replies this forum is awesome
MJD

i am with Ed on that ONE...why not just go ahead and buy you some billet caps and do it really right since there is going to be some line boring going on any how..you are not talking about that much more money to do this...90 bucks for the caps..at least i know the 2 bolt spalyed cap conversion kit cost this much...i have also had much success with the old process of making some main cap billet straps..used the extra long main studs...i have 2 400's done this way and a 383 alcohol injected motor..never had any trouble with the bottom ends on those motors..
Good luck..by the way where in N.C.. are you..i am in S.C.,,,around the Greenville area...about 1 hour away from Asheville N.C.

Later Brian

Bjuice ,
I live just outside the Winston-Salem limits, but my favorite state is SC. My mom has some land down on Lake Wateree so we're down south as much as possible. I lived in the Clemson/Anderson area for a whille, I do Instrumentation/Electrical work for a living had a long term project at the old Westpoint Stevens plant there.

I agree with the fellas.


Brian
I'll be in Duncan,SC Wed and Thur, you should give me a call.
317-445-3719