Hydraulic Fluid
 

I was thinking of switching the glide over to hydraulic fluid in my FED. No cooler just about 1' of line to loop it back to the case. Isn't hyd. fluid somewhat thicker? Kris

I think it is about the same, maybe thinner if anything but if it is not by much.

The hydralic fluid work fine, now I'd be more concerned that your not running a transmission cooler, that's a big time no-no, just ask my friend, Earl.
Cp

"Technically" I had a cooler on the car. Actually tho it wasn't hooked up to the tranny. I'd definatly recommend a cooler. Unless of course, you're like me, and really love rebuilding powerglides.

You outted me CP :lol:

Re: Hydraulic Fluid
 

Shogun cooler is the bomb. Holds about 4 quarts it will drop your trans temp about 20 degrees.

tranny cooler
 

I run this car in Nostalgia events/shows so I might run every 2 hrs.. not bracket round after round, plus no trans brake. Thats why I dont run a cooler, plus I get towed back to pit. I havent checked in awhile but at one time Iknow you could buy hydraulic in 5 gallon's cheaper then 12 qt's. of tranny fluid. Is their any other benifit's other then cost difference.

Kris

hyd fluid
 

I would recommend doing some homework here. There are many many types of hydraulic fluid, and most of them are not designed for "wet clutch" type applications like transmission fluid is designed for. There are "heavy" trans fluids like Allisons and other heavy equipment trannys use that would be good choices, but I doubt any savings long term, especially if you puke one tranny from the wrong fluid... you can buy dexron in 5's at napa... or any chevron jobber store

Although I disagree with the above post on not saving money .. 5 gals for 26.99, syn fluid 8-10.00 a qt so a big savings is had.

Get tractor trans fluid, it is thicker as I am seeing converter stall changes and plan to go back to type F just to see the difference in stall.

we did some testing with tractor hydraulic fluid a few weeks ago. Thought it would lubricate the pump better. which it did a good job at that, problem was it was too slick and ate up a brand new race series band in two runs. Went through trans, cleaned up everything and switched back to the original b&m trick shift and back to going rounds.

Guys out there run it but i'm stickin to my theory of why fix something that isn't broken. If it's working, why change.

I just did a test from hyd fluid back to type F fluid. Added 15 degrees trans temp with type f but the main reason I switched back is this.
My delay in my delay box last year was 1160ish, this year with hyd fluid I am 1070. Switched back and was 1150 last time out. Very suprising results